Frozen waterfalls are an intrepid hiker's reward

SPRINGFIELD, Mo. -- Kimberling City hiker Tim Canchola was surprised to see this on his trek to the famous Arkansas "Glory Hole."

Despite sunny skies and temperatures in the upper 50s on a recent January weekend, Canchola said he and a group of fellow hikers discovered glistening icicles hanging from the edge of a hole in the rock above their heads.

"It was really spectacular," Canchola said. "Ice was frozen inside it, with icicles coming down from the ceiling. Outside where the sun was shining, the icicles on the cliffs were disappearing quickly. But in the shade, they're still there."

As Canchola knows, the deep freeze of an Ozarks winter like the area experienced in early January can transform the landscape.

Water seeping from the sides of cliffs freezes into stairstep mounds of white ice. Cliff ledges grow rows of clear-ice teeth. And waterfalls, especially the big ones along the Buffalo National River, can seem frozen in mid-flow.

Canchola said he started taking winter hikes several years ago with Dan Nash, an expert hiking guide who owns Satori Adventures and Expeditions in Nixa, Missouri. Hiking with someone who knew the way and shared his expertise motivated Canchola to try winter hiking.

Another plus: No ticks.

"I really wanted to see the waterfalls during winter, and the ice we saw was just a surprising side benefit," Canchola said. "Last year we hiked down to Dismal Hollow in Arkansas and it was a half-bowl formation with ice frozen all the way around on two levels. It's amazing how water just comes out of the rock and freezes like that."

He said conditions have to be just right for great ice to form on Ozarks cliffs and waterfalls. Those conditions came together several weeks ago when southern Missouri and north-central Arkansas got several days of rain, followed by two weeks of intense cold.

He acknowledged that hiking near icy streams or waterfalls can be treacherous.

"If you don't have the right outdoor skills or proper boots and gear, it can be dangerous," he said. "But I've hiked with Dan for three years and I now know how to not get into situations that will be difficult to get out of."

Nash said he enjoys taking hikers on winter adventures to experience scenic Ozarks trails. He also leads more experienced hikers on bushwhacking excursions where they go off trail to explore rarely seen rock formations.

"If you want to hike during winter, you need to dress in layers so that as you get warm you can peel layers off," Nash said. "You never want to sweat -- that's a good way for you to get hypothermia."

Winter hikers should wear a good-quality waterproof hiking boot and carry an extra pair of dry socks -- wool, preferably, because it retains heat even when damp.

"Hiking poles will help you tremendously in slick, icy terrain. I highly recommend them," Nash added. "And of course you need to have the basics in your backpack -- a first-aid kit, some kind of survival blanket, an extra jacket and gloves. You'll want a headlamp in case it starts to get dark and you need to see your way back out.

"You should also have several ways of making fire -- waterproof matches, a lighter and a steel striker for making sparks. You hopefully will never have to use those things, but at least you'll have them if you do."

Nash said one of the most spectacular ice formations winter hikers can reach is the 250-foot waterfall at Hemmed in Hollow near the Buffalo National River, about 9 miles east of Ponca, Arkansas. It's the tallest waterfall east of the Rockies and west of the Appalachian Mountains.

"When it's very cold, spray from the falls fills Hemmed in Hollow full of ice," Nash said. "The Compton trail is super well marked, but it's a very steep trail going in and very steep going out. You'll also see several smaller 10- and 12-foot waterfalls along the way."

A 2-mile hike to Boen Gulf south of Boxley, Arkansas, leads to Magnolia Falls and two others that freeze during intense cold. Although the trail isn't marked, Nash said so many hikers travel it that it's relatively easy to navigate.

For experienced, physically fit hikers, Nash said he likes leading people to Big Piney waterfall south of Limestone, Arkansas.

"There's no trail for this one, it's total bushwhacking, but the waterfall is very spectacular," Nash said. "Since you're not on a trail, it's best to go with a guide and have some map-reading and navigation skills."

Eden Falls at Lost Valley Trail 2 miles south of Ponca offers family-friendly hiking year-round, according to Nash. The well-marked trail is an easy 1.1-mile hike to reach the falls.

Missouri's terrain isn't nearly as steep and rugged as hikers will find along the Buffalo National River, and thus there aren't as many waterfalls, Nash said. But hikers can still find scenic winter ice along the rock ledges of Long Creek at Hercules Glades Wilderness Area south of Bradleyville.

The area has 32 miles of hiking trails, ranging from moderate to difficult.

Many Missouri conservation areas and state parks also have creeks and small waterfalls that turn into icy vistas during periods of intense cold.