Few tourists in Bethlehem

BETHLEHEM, West Bank -- Few foreign pilgrims braved the journey to the town of Jesus' birth this Christmas Day. For those who did, a gauntlet of army checkpoints and battle-scarred buildings were reminders that peace is still a thing of prayers.

The town's Palestinian Christians celebrated mostly alone Tuesday, without even their leader, as Israel prevented Yasser Arafat from making his annual pilgrimage.

"There is something black on our hearts," said Luna Ijha, a 28-year-old local Christian, as she stood in a nearly empty church after morning mass next to the fourth-century, fortress-like stone and wood Church of the Nativity.

In the small grotto beneath the floor, a handful of pilgrims who did arrive gathered to sing hymns and carols, crouching on the ancient stone floor to touch a silver star that marks the spot where Christians believe Jesus was born.

Latin Patriarch Michel Sabbah conducted morning Mass. In the afternoon, priests wearing flowing brown robes led local residents in prayer at nearby Shepherds' Field in the mostly Christian town of Beit Sahour, where biblical tradition says the herders watching their flock were awe-struck by news of the Christ Child's birth.