Fashion Week proceeds against backdrop of possible war

LONDON -- As London Fashion Week proceeds with its usual glitz, color and frills, designer Katharine Hamnett broke from the mold to send models down the catwalk in stark black T-shirts with the harshly printed slogan "Stop War, Blair Out."

Hamnett's political message made her virtually the only designer to acknowledge public concern over a possible war in Iraq and Prime Minister Tony Blair's role in the pro-action camp.

Designers often cite world events and moods as the inspiration for their collections. At the first round of shows held in New York after the Sept. 11 attacks, designers staged smaller, quieter showings full of American-inspired homespun fashion.

But the London fashion set has largely ignored the mood enveloping much of Britain.

Hamnett's show -- thanks to her T-shirts -- is the only one so far to make the front page of British newspapers.

London Fashion Week began Saturday, the same day as a huge anti-war demonstration in the capital, but most fashionistas only saw the protest as a hindrance. Some designers sent notes with their invitations detailing the best way to avoid the demonstration.

Young London designers Julian Roberts and Sophie Cheung were the only others to make a statement this week by pulling out of their show, saying it was too frivolous at a time of impending war.

But their protest took a low-key form when they checked into a London hotel on Friday for the duration of fashion week.

"We have no desire to demonstrate politically against war in any conventional way," the pair said in a statement. "We are making a stand for escapism and retreat rather than direct confrontation."

Other designers taking part in the six-day event of 49 catwalk shows and 142 exhibitors said the show must go on.

Frenchman Roland Mouret said designers are always influenced by external events, but he was not looking to make a political statement.

"There is more relevance for us in trying to make better prices and make clothes more affordable," Mouret said. "I am not interested in being Mr. Political on the catwalk."

London Fashion Week, held twice yearly in September and February, also has to contend with complaints about a lack of funding, media coverage and buyers. Some critics say London focuses too much on innovation at the expense of commercial potential and wearability.

This time round, the event has attracted Anna Wintour, the highly-regarded editor of Vogue who can make or break a function simply by deciding whether or not she will turn up.

Also on hand are some high-profile models, including Sophie Dahl, Elizabeth Jagger, Jacquetta Wheeler and Kirsty Hume. But the are attending in large part due to financial sponsorship from P&G Beauty, the maker of Olay and Max Factor.

Last September, Mayor Ken Livingstone announced a commission would be set up to invest in fashion. Its report will not be completed until July, but the findings on the design sector, released this week, are promising. It shows that the industry's sales increased from $120 million in 1990, to $1.1 billion in 2001.