FASHION TO FUNGI: TAKING CARE OF FINGERNAILS

Dawn Abney pushed back the toenail cuticle with an orange stick to allow better growth of the toenail.

Toenails are trimmed at a 45-degree angle.

A metal file is used to shape the nail before it is smoothed with an emery board.

Brandi Wilson, a student at Stage One The Hair School, gave a manicure to Ashley Carlton of Jackson.

Acrylic sculptures and tips are fashionable "casts" for short or broken fingernails, but fashion can lead to fungi or other infections when proper sanitation and disinfection techniques aren't practiced.

Unless nails have been injured, they generally become discolored because of an infection. Most nail infections are due to types of fungus that occur when nails are continually exposed to a warm, moist environment. Other infections, especially when acrylic nails are involved, occur because a fungus or mold has been spread because of unsanitary practices by a nail technician.

Fungi grow through nail tissue, eventually causing the nail to turn an unusual color. Like a cavity in a tooth, the infection eats through the nail, eventually decaying it without proper medication.

Dr. Kenneth Dempsey, a dermatologist in Cape Girardeau, does not recommend wearing acrylic nails. Although most fungus infections are from an inherited tendency to get infections, anything "extraordinary" done to nails can lead to extraordinary problems, he said.

"It's not a serious problem -- it doesn't kill you," said Dempsey. "It's a dumb idea and can be very irritating to skin around the nails. Just don't do stupid things and nails will be just fine."

Sammi Reeves, manicure instructor at Stage One The Hair School, disagreed. She said artificial nails can make hands attractive until natural nails are a desirable length if the customer and the nail technician practice proper sanitation.

Some of the warning signs a nail technician or a customer should look for are bruised nails, spots or other discoloration that might indicate the presence of a mold, broken skins and thin nail layers. It's also important to wear gloves and use fresh orange sticks to prevent spreading infection, she said.

Reeves said licensed nail technicians are the first line of defense in fighting nail infections. Although their license does not permit them to diagnose medical nail problems, an attentive nail tech who cares about her client's safety won't apply a nail if she sees a problem and will recommend the client see a physician.

That advice can prevent a simple spot from leading to a nail that possibly has to be removed, she said.

"Clear communication with clients is important, because we need to know what medications they're using, if they have any health problems like diabetes that might affect their nails, and just basically what's going on with their nails," she said.

Reeves said many nail technicians neglect sanitary practices in their rush to work on as many people as possible. Many don't use antibacterial or FDA-approved products because of the added expense, and the result is endangerment of a client's safety, she said.

"We do not sterilize in beauty salons, it's not practical, but we do practice sanitation," she said. "A lot of why the doctors have fits about those acrylic nails is because they're (nail technicians) not communicating with their clients and practicing using disinfectant products."

Amy Lutes, a Stage One hair and nails student, said she thinks artificial nails can be a positive experience for wearers. "I don't think artificial nails are dumb, but it's important to keep all your implements clean so it doesn't develop a larger problem," she said. "We want to make money, but people are paying for your time and they want to make sure you're doing a good job."

Reeves agreed, saying artificial nails can be worn long periods of time if they are professionally applied and kept up. The nails should be professionally removed and reapplied every six months and, once removed, strengtheners should be applied to the natural nails, she said.

"Artificial nails are casts that help people go from short nails to their desired length," she said. "Just like when legs are in casts, the natural nail goes soft and needs support once the cast is removed."

"It all depends on who is helping with the support before and after the 'cast' is removed," she said. "I've known people to wear acrylic nails for long periods of time and their nails are just fine, but they have to go to someone they trust and who cares about their safety."