DRY WEATHER GOOD FOR WINE GROWERS

COMMERCE -- One of the worst droughts in recent history combined with rock-bottom prices has ensured 1999 will be long remembered as a hard year for farmers. But for winemakers and wine aficionados alike, 1999 is likely to be hailed as a classic year.

Missouri winegrowers are reporting excellent ton-to-acre yields. "Our problem is being blessed with overabundance," said Jerry Smith of River Ridge Winery in Commerce, sounding very much as if it isn't a problem at all.

As the harvest progresses through the several varieties of grapes, winding toward the October picking of red grapes, Smith has busy days ahead of him for the next couple of months. The grapes are crushed within two hours of being picked, as the indigenous yeasts begin their work right away.

"We're closing in on critical mass. In the next week and a half, we will pick 12,000 to 15,000 pounds of grapes,"said Smith.

Winegrowers are even more excited by the quality than the quantity of this year's crop.

"Last year was our best year yet, and this year looks to be better than last year," said Smith, who was fortunate enough to have a dry season in a year where most Missouri winegrowers experienced frequent rains.

This year the sun and lack of rain -- ideal conditions for wine growers -- are found across the state. Although the drier weather means smaller grapes with less juice, the intensity of the less "watered down" juice produces a better wine.

According to Smith, the weather, combined with proper pruning, training of the vine, leaf removal for exposure to the sun, and netting to protect the vines from birds and animals so the bunches can hang longer, all contribute to "build the sugar."

Smith cautioned that there is more to fine wine than just sugar content, however, with hundreds of minor components making large differences is mouth feel and flavor.

The Associated Press provided some information used in this article.