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NewsAugust 17, 2003

NEW MARKET, Va. -- Here's some thirst-quenching information for gardeners facing stressed-out plants. Drip irrigation isn't just for commercial operators anymore. Extensive drought and tougher water restrictions are forcing homeowners to water more efficiently and more responsibly. In many areas of the nation, there simply isn't enough water to go around...

By Dean Fosdick, The Associated Press

NEW MARKET, Va. -- Here's some thirst-quenching information for gardeners facing stressed-out plants. Drip irrigation isn't just for commercial operators anymore.

Extensive drought and tougher water restrictions are forcing homeowners to water more efficiently and more responsibly. In many areas of the nation, there simply isn't enough water to go around.

Enter drip irrigation, which ends the wasteful practice of spraying or gushing water into the air. The system simply drips, applying moisture precisely where and when plants need it. There's little evaporation and virtually no runoff.

The concept isn't new, says Larry Stein, an associate professor and extension horticulturist with Texas A&M University. German and Italian horticulturists were working out the kinks in the 1930s.

"However, it took the development of UV-light resistant plastic pipes and fittings to make drip irrigation practical for home gardeners," Stein says in a recent Texas A&M brochure, Lawn and Garden Update.

The most practical home applications are in gardens, hedgerows, flowerbeds and around trees and shrubs, Stein says. "The key to making drip irrigation work in home landscapes is scheduling -- knowing when and how long to water," he says.

Drip irrigation systems are made up of hose or tubing, filters, pressure regulators, couplers, emitters and a plan.

Determine your design

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Leon Springer, president and a founder of Dripworks, in Willits, Calif., suggests sticking with a simple plan.

"Start small," Springer says. "Get a feel for it. You can tell what works for you and what works best. Start with the back yard, for example, then expand."

Begin by installing a filter near the top of your drip irrigation system. The quality and source of your water will dictate the kind of filter to use, but it stands to reason that pond or ditch water requires filters different from those you'd link to a city tap. Filters generally keep hoses working longer and deliver water clear of silt or minerals.

Add a timer if you travel frequently or if you want to end the too wet-too dry cycles that can stress plants.

Connect and extend the tubing. Your garden layout will pretty much determine the shape your irrigation system takes.

It's easier to use soaker hose, but strategically placed "emitters" attached to polyethylene tubing are good -- especially for raised bed and container gardens. One hose, by the way, generally serves two rows of vegetables.

Stake everything down, flush the system and then cap the end of the tubing. Run a test to ensure the water is going exactly where you want it.

Drip irrigation is easy to install, says Springer, whose company offers a free design service for most small and medium-sized systems.

"We get a good five to 10 orders for every one we design for," Springer says. "Our clients become a marketing tool."

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