American military returns to Vietnam

HO CHI MINH CITY, Vietnam -- The streets of what was once Saigon were again teeming with American sailors on Wednesday following the arrival of the first U.S. Navy ship since the Vietnam War.

The crew of the USS Vandegrift -- many of them sons and daughters of Vietnam veterans -- made a historic port call in Ho Chi Minh City during a symbolic visit aimed at boosting bilateral relations between the former foes.

"My father actually fought in the Vietnam War," said Ensign Esther "Mary" Alcantara, 23, of Northridge, Calif., one of about 200 sailors aboard the frigate. "This trip was actually very symbolic to me, and I know to the Navy as well."

The missile frigate, based in Yokosuka, Japan and part of the 7th Fleet, cruised up the Saigon River with American and Vietnamese flags flapping before docking on Wednesday. A chain of white-uniformed sailors stood along the ship's railings as it came in, some holding video cameras and binoculars.

Foes to friends

"I think one of the messages here today is that the ... U.S. and Vietnam are showing the world that former foes can become friends," said U.S. Ambassador Raymond Burghardt, who was on hand for the welcoming ceremony at Saigon Port. American commanders later attended a ceremony honoring Vietnamese communist leader Ho Chi Minh.

Burghardt added that the United States is not pushing to re-establish a military presence in Vietnam but wants access to friendly nations' ports instead.

The four-day port call follows a meeting last week by Defense Minister Pham Van Tra and Defense Secretary Donald H. Rumsfeld -- the first time a senior Vietnamese military official has visited Washington.

Bilateral ties have been steadily expanding since diplomatic relations were established in 1995. Vietnam recently said it sends more goods to the United States than anywhere else.

However, the two countries have only begun working on the more sensitive area of military cooperation. As the U.S. and Vietnam find common ground on issues of counterterrorism and regional stability, future military ties will likely include more high-level exchanges as well as more ship visits.

As a first step, the frigate's arrival in Saigon Port is an important gesture, said Duong Trung Quoc, a Vietnamese historian and legislator.

"This is the first time in Vietnam history that a U.S. warship has come to Vietnam with a peaceful flag and friendly spirit," Quoc said. "It is the result of the normalization and development process of the ties between the two countries."

Many Vietnamese say the port call is welcome, demonstrating that old wounds have finally healed following the conflict that killed 58,000 Americans and 3 million Vietnamese.

"Since Vietnam is now at peace, it's normal for an American Navy ship to be in Vietnam," said Dang Van Hai, 49, a former South Vietnamese soldier who now drives a motorbike taxi.

"I've seen many American veterans who came back. Most of (today's sailors) were not involved in the war and they're visiting many countries and Vietnam is one of their destinations, so I think it's good for them to come back here," he said.

On Wednesday, the sailors, decked out in their white Navy uniforms, were hard to miss as they began three and a half days of shore leave. Motorbikes and traffic swirled around them in this southern city that once held a constant American presence during the Vietnam War. Saigon, the capital of U.S.-backed South Vietnam, fell to communist forces in 1975 and was then renamed Ho Chi Minh City.

Cmdr. Richard Rogers said there was so much excitement leading up to the visit that many crew members were up before reveille.

"The river transit today was fantastic," Rogers said. "I think my crew genuinely enjoyed coming up the river and seeing the sights."

Strolling through the city, Alcantara said she planned to check out the city's war museum, taste the local cuisine and possibly squeeze through the tunnels built by communist guerrillas during the war.

Her first souvenir purchase was a favorite among American tourists -- helicopters made from aluminum soda and beer cans.

"It means a lot to me to be back here and know that we're establishing a positive relationship with Vietnam again," she said, adding that her father was excited for her to visit the country where he was once drafted to fight.

Wartime Saigon was also a city synonymous with a vibrant night life, with drinking and carousing U.S. soldiers and other foreigners frequenting bars downtown and near the port. Navy officials have said sailors on this visit must be back on the ship or in their hotel rooms by midnight.

"I think they will behave themselves," said John Smallman, a Navy special agent who handles criminal and security issues and keeps a watchful eye on sailors in foreign ports. "But we don't want them to be so careful that nobody has any fun."

After stepping off the ship, Lt. j.g. Don Shrader, 31, of San Diego, said Vietnam ranks as one of the top places he's visited in his 13 years as a sailor.

"We didn't really think it would become a reality -- and here I am now," he said.