Port Cape: Where the river flows and the ribs are dry-rubbed

The floodgates at the Mississippi River are open again, and I was there, watching the water scroll endlessly to the right. I wasn't born in this part of the country, so I try not to take the river for granted. There is so much water there. It boggles the mind how many gallons are passing, and yet, still the river runs. I'm sure there's a poetic life truism in there somewhere. Maybe my next visit to the river will reveal it, or maybe I'll just be watching the water flow. Either way, it will be a visit worth making.

Anyway, I was right there on Water Street, so I popped in to Port Cape for a late lunch. Normally, I would have just stopped at the ice cream window, but since I'm denying myself all that's good in life in favor of my health (sigh ... it's really not that bad, I just tend toward melodrama), I decided to opt for an actual meal. If you can have sugar, though, I can't recommend Port Cape's ice cream parlor window enough. There is nothing quite like strolling the river, slowly eating a hand-dipped cone full of hard ice cream on a steamy summer day. Port Cape's ice cream is in the right place at the right time.

Immediately upon stepping into the restaurant, it becomes apparent that there has been barbecue cooked in that place since the restaurant opened in 1974. Like an aged whiskey barrel seeped in flavor for years, the smoky smell of charcoal and hickory permeates the place, and not in an unpleasant way. It was one of those in-between times of the day, and there were not many people in the restaurant. One of the things I would ask you to keep in mind is that you should never go to Port Cape if you are in a hurry. There is a timeless quality to the place that seems to pull you back to a slower life, and nothing really moves quickly here. Sit back, enjoy the atmosphere, bring a conversation buddy and drink in the experience.

I've had catfish here before, and the most wonderful onion rings. I've done the pulled pork, but realized that I had never actually had the ribs here before, so I ordered the barbecue combination dinner, and picked the ribs and pork shoulder. I probably wouldn't order the pork shoulder again, but the ribs! Oh my goodness, how had I missed trying these for so many years?

The ribs came out dry, and by that I mean, not sauced. There was some barbecue sauce on the side in a little cup. After tasting the sauce, I decided to pass because it was very sweet, and, you know, no sugar because I'm being good right now. Fairly thick and meaty, the ribs weren't scrawny. I bit into one and smiled. These didn't need any kind of sauce. Smoky and wonderful, they had been cooked with a dry rub, a fantastic blend of spices that worked their way through the meat somehow, soaking into the fibers. My ribs were also very tender, and the meat fell away from the bone with very little coaxing on my part, with the perfect amount of moisture. Really very good.

A great deal for lunch at Port Cape, one of the choices is a catfish sandwich, served here with a loaded baked potato.Submitted by Rebecca LaClair

I also received grilled asparagus and a house salad with my order. I love asparagus, and it can do no wrong in my book, especially when it is in season. The house salad was simple, with lettuce, grape tomatoes and cucumber slices. Everything was fresh and crispy, and it was piled high on a plate almost too small for it.

I would be remiss to forget the rolls and strawberry butter. I did take one bite of this, just to try, and the butter was mixed with fresh strawberries, just bursting with sweet summer flavor. Spread on the soft roll, it reminded me of warm strawberry shortcake. Make sure you don't miss it.

You've got options at Port Cape. The lunch plates are very affordable at $7.95, and you can order them until 4 p.m., which is pretty nifty. According to Port Cape's website, there's also all-you-can-eat catfish on Friday nights, if that's your kind of thing. The restaurant also offers some pretty spectacular private rooms for rent, especially the River City Yacht Club on the second floor, with a great view of the Mississippi.

If you'd like a leisurely meal in a neat old building, visit Port Cape at 19 N. Water St. in Cape Girardeau.