Understanding the six basic cheese varieties

HYDE PARK, N.Y. -- Shopping for cheese can be as much fun as serving it to guests.

First, some basics. Cheese is defined as a food product made from the pressed curd of milk. Like wine, natural cheese is thought of as a living food because of the friendly, living bacteria that are continually changing it.

The term natural is used to distinguish cheeses that will ripen over time from processed cheeses, which will not.

Cheese experts differ on the number and organization of cheese groupings. In "Garde Manger: The Art and Craft of the Cold Kitchen," cheeses are grouped into the following categories: fresh, rind-ripened, semisoft, blue, hard and very hard.

Fresh cheeses are cheeses that are uncooked and unripened and have a creamy flavor and soft texture. These cheeses are typically the most perishable and are sometimes kept in brine to preserve their freshness. Examples of soft fresh cheeses include cottage cheese, queso blanco, cream cheese and homemade lemon cheese.

Rind-ripened cheeses are typically sprayed or dusted with a mold to promote ripening. Two of the most popular varieties are brie and Camembert. Soft-ripened cheeses are available in varying degrees of richness and may be labeled as single, double and triple creams, indicating their fat content.

Semisoft cheeses include a wide variety, ranging from mild and buttery to pungent and aromatic. Examples include Limburger, its American counterpart Liederkranz, Muenster, Bel Paese and Havarti. Gouda and Edam are sealed in wax prior to the aging process. These cheeses are sometimes flavored or smoked and are sold in mild and aged varieties.

Blue cheeses are injected with a mold, then salted or brined and allowed to ripen in caves or in cave-like conditions. Some of the most famous blue cheeses are French Roquefort, Italian Gorgonzola, English Stilton and American Maytag Blue.

There are a variety of hard cheeses produced around the world. Cheddars (including Monterey Jack, Colby and Longhorn) and Swiss-style cheeses (Gruyere, Emmental, Beaufort and Jarlsberg) are among the best known.

Very hard, or grating, cheeses are known in Italy as "granas." The most popular of these cheeses are Romano and Parmesan, which are now produced throughout the world. True Parmigiano Reggiano, the most prized Parmesan cheese, is often referred to as the king of cheeses. Many believe that the formula for this cheese has not changed in more than 700 years, and that its origins date back even further.

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If your market features a special cheese section, become familiar with the types it offers. Larger cities may have special cheese shops; and many cheeses are available through a wide range of mail-order sources.

Look for cheeses that are neatly sliced and wrapped, with appropriate signs of aging and ripeness. Some cheeses may be highly aromatic, even pungent, but they should not smell strongly of ammonia; that indicates that the cheese is well past its prime. There should be no signs of drying or cracking, evidence the cheese has not been handled properly.

Cheeses are relatively expensive, so once you purchase them, wrap them well and refrigerate. Fresh soft cheeses can last under home-storage conditions for three or four days. Semisoft, hard, and blue cheeses can last about two weeks.

Arrange the cheese and let come to room temperature about one to two hours before you plan to serve it. This process, known as aromatization, brings out the fullest flavor of the cheese. A cheese board is a traditional way to present cheese. Line the board decoratively with clean nontoxic leaves.

If you are serving cheeses in blocks, be sure to provide knives. Use small tongs or forks for sliced cheeses.

Bread and crackers have a natural affinity with cheese. They can be subtly flavored or they may add some kick of their own. Sourdough, country style or peasant breads, rye, pumpernickel, or crackers from strongly flavored grains such as rye or whole wheat or those with added flavors, including seeds, spices, peppercorns and cheese, can all be effective.

Add some fresh and dried fruits and nuts to the display, both for appearance and the refreshing counterpoint they add to the cheese experience.

Wine, beer, and cider also make great partners for cheese. Classic examples of taste pairing include apples and Cheddar with hard cider, or pears and blue cheese and walnuts with port.

Select the accompaniments with the same care you did the cheese.

Lemon Cheese

6 cups milk

2 cups heavy cream

1/2 cup fresh lemon juice, strained and chilled

1 teaspoon salt

1/2 teaspoon grated lemon zest

Heat the milk and cream over simmering water to 100 F. Remove from the heat, add lemon juice. Stir until milk and cream mixture starts to curdle or thicken. Let rest at room temperature for 3 to 4 hours. Pour into a cheesecloth-lined colander set over a bowl and drain under refrigeration for 12 hours.

Transfer the drained cheese to a bowl and work in the salt and lemon zest with wooden spoon just until evenly blended.

Press into a mold or a bowl, cover with plastic wrap, top with a small plate and a weight (a can of beans, for example), and refrigerate overnight.

The cheese is ready to unmold after 12 hours, or it may be stored for up to 4 days before serving.

Makes 3 cups.