The Beauty Counter: How to contour like a pro

I think by now it's safe to say unless you've been living the past half-decade under a rock, chances are you are well aware of a makeup technique we ladies and gentlemen like to call "contouring." In the past year alone, contouring has taken on a life of its own. Sephora could probably dedicate a whole other store to nothing but contouring and highlighting products. I even had a client's grandmother ask me to make her cheekbones look like Kim Kardashian's.

But while we are busy overloading our phones and tablets with Instagram filters to give us that "beat face" look after applying an overwhelming amount of bronzer, and binge-watching YouTube tutorials from the latest up-and-coming self-proclaimed makeup guru, I think it's important to understand the images (and by images, I mean selfies) we see on Instagram, Twitter or Snapchat are more than likely filtered half a dozen times, and the user probably spent a good 30 minutes in front of the camera before picking one image to filter and upload with the hashtag #fiveminutemakeup or #sunkissedglow.

Everyone wants those perfectly sculpted cheekbones and noses that look so straight and slender it'll make you question whether they're actually able to breathe through it. It's actually a great concept. With the right brush, some darker makeup and proper blending, you can transform yourself into someone completely unlike yourself. But before you decide to become the next YouTube guru, it's important to understand the common mistakes when trying this technique.

The first and most common mistake people make when contouring is using a bronzer. A bronzer should be avoided as a contouring option because it simply is too warm. The purpose of using a bronzer and contouring your face are actually two completely different ideas. We use bronzers to achieve a sun-kissed glow because they are a warm-toned color. In contrast, the point of contouring is to create a shadow effect, which is what helps recede (or minimize) parts of our face that we don't want people to focus on. To create a shadow, we want to look toward cool-toned colors, such as browns with a gray undertone. It's also important to steer clear of bronzers with shimmer or glitter, as this will only highlight the areas you want minimized or recessed.

The second mistake is using a formula that is too dark. You should not use any contouring product that is more than one and a half to two shades darker than your own skin. If you use contouring products that are much darker than your complexion, you risk the contour appearing too harsh, especially in photographs.

Another common issue picking up whatever brush you have easy access to and using it. Contouring is about creating an angle as much as it is creating the shadow. You want to look at your face and choose the appropriate brush for the part of your face you want to contour. A general rule of thumb is that you use a medium-size angled brush that is not densely packed in the brush. The more dense your brush hairs, the more product you will pick up and dispense on your face. This will just create more work for you, because you'll have to blend more to get rid of any harshness. You also want to pay attention to what you are contouring. While a medium-size brush may be useful for many areas on your face, contouring your nose, underneath your lip and the eye area will require something smaller and a less angled. This is one of those "less is more" lessons I feel we really could benefit from. We, myself included, can be heavy-handed basically in everything in life, so why would applying makeup be any different, right? However, it is important that we learn to build the application. It's easier to build up the application than try to reduce it.

Blending, which goes right along with the type of brush you choose, is such a huge part of contouring that it baffles me when I see people with a harsh contour line, usually around the cheekbone or temple area. It is so important to blend, blend, blend, almost to the point where it looks like the contour is gone. If it is gone, it's OK because you can apply more if you need to -- it's when you place the contour on your face and forget to blend that it becomes an issue. When you are blending, you want to do it in two different motions. Start with back-and-forth motions to ensure the product has been applied completely and evenly on the area you are contouring. Then blend in small, circular motions. If you use a beauty blender or sponge, pat the sponge with a medium to light pressure in a swooping motion, so while you are blending the product into your skin, you're also removing any excess product.

Another issue I've found with contouring is we forget we've already put on foundation, and now we're about to throw another layer of makeup on top of that. Or, vice versa, we'll contour our face, then cover it up by applying a second layer of foundation. There are definitely areas of our face that need foundation, and I do feel like applying some foundation helps make the contouring liquids, creams and powders apply more flawlessly, but it's still a lot of makeup. Limit how much foundation you apply to your skin, and only apply it in areas that are crucial to having it. Let the contour be the focus and then use a highlight to emphasize the facial features you want to showcase.

The last mistake involves lighting. The lighting you surround yourself in while doing your makeup can determine the overall appearance once you've completed your application. Avoid soft, yellow lighting, as it makes skin look sallow. This lighting also is dark, so we think if we can't see the our makeup in that lighting, then certainly we haven't applied enough, so we apply more. Then when we're done and we approve how we look in that lighting, we go outside or move into different lighting, and the result can be disastrous. We leave the room thinking we look like Mimi Rodgers, but then step in front of a mirror in more natural light and all we think of is Mimi from "The Drew Carey Show." Ideally, what you want is natural lighting. We can't always do our makeup outside in natural sunlight, but if you have a window that brings in a lot of natural light, or a room that is brightly lit from the outside, that would be an ideal area to apply your makeup. If that's not an option, err on the side of caution and keep it light-handed. As I mentioned earlier, you can always apply more where and if needed.

Contouring can be a great technique to have in your arsenal. It can change your overall physical appearance, either slightly or drastically. However, it's important to consider some of the do's and dont's when contouring. The most important thing is to have fun doing it. If it doesn't work the first time, keep trying. Change the application to fit what works best for you.

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About Anne

Anne Hudson, a self-taught makeup artist, has had a passion for makeup since she was old enough to know what makeup was. She could write a book about red lipstick, but for now, she's offering her best tips in Flourish magazine. Have a question for Anne? Send it to rgautschy@semissourian.com, and you might find the answer in a future issue of Flourish.