RIVER CITY JOURNAL: EUREKA SPRINGS: IT'S A LITTLE TOWN WITH SOME BIG SURPRISES

While nearby Branson was getting all the glory, this Arkansas village-on-a-mountain was just getting better.

Thirty-two years ago, my wife and I spent a few days in Eureka Springs, Ark. We went there thinking we might wind up living there. In the end, we chose to move to Dallas instead.

We have retained fond memories of Eureka Springs all these years. There is no town with a more picturesque setting to be found in the Midwest. Thanks to the rugged Ozarks hills, the town is peculiarly situated with springs flowing from the hillside and crooked, narrow streets that go up, down and sideways -- all at the same time, it seems.

When we were there in the 1960s, there wasn't much to write home about except for the beauty of the area and the haze of a bygone era when mineral springs were the source of elixirs, spas and physical redemption.

Go to Eureka Springs now -- yes, Virginia, you can get there if you try -- and you will be amazed. We were. We're still talking about it.

Eureka Springs is one of those towns that has established itself as a worthwhile tourist destination. It is full of sparkling new motels that compliment the century-old hotels that are being carefully restored. There are shops to cater to anyone and everyone's tastes and interests and pocketbooks. There are antique emporia that will leave you dizzy from walking through their laden aisles. There is high-quality entertainment. And big shows, including a popular Passion play. And restaurants that fill you up with fine food so you'll have the strength to climb the next hill.

In a word, Eureka Springs exploded while Branson, an hour's drive away, got all the attention.

To get to Eureka Springs -- and there is no easy way to do that -- most folks go to Springfield, turn south past Branson and then head west once they're past the Arkansas border. That's one way. But it's a congested route with bumper-to-bumper traffic at times and highways perpetually under construction trying to keep up with the load.

A less direct but certainly more scenic and peaceful route takes you past Springfield on I-44 to the Mount Vernon exit where you head south until you hook up with the highway that leads straight into Eureka Springs from the north. There's not much traffic going this way, and the scenery is breathtaking, particularly at the time of year when the golds, scarlets, bronzes and rusts of autumn are at their peak.

Either way you go, allow a good 6 1/2 to 7 hours.

Yes. It's been dry down that way. But for some reason the trees don't seem to be showing it.

This past weekend we managed to spend the better part of a day at a magical place just west of town called Eureka Springs Gardens. This botanical bonus starts on top of a hill and drapes over limestone cliffs to reach a large spring. In every direction are blooming things carefully tucked into the landscape: under trees, along bluffs, through meadows and beside spring-fed streams. You have to do a little huffing and puffing coming back up to the starting point, but it's all done on a low-incline ramp that even wheelchairs can navigate. If you go, don't miss it.

The other don't-miss attraction is something called Quigley's Castle. I wish I could describe it to you and do it justice, but I can't. Besides, I wouldn't want to spoil it for you. Let me just say that it is one of the most unusual and amazing homes you'll ever see no matter where you go. It's on one of the hilltops just south of town. If you come away disappointed, I'll gladly refund your money even if the gatekeeper won't.

Did I mention lakes? There are lakes. Big ones. Little ones. You choose.

The best thing about Eureka Springs is that there is a surprise around every corner. And believe you me there are lots of corners.

A few tips: If you go, take your most comfortable walking shoes. In town, park your car. Ride the trolleys. Use your feet. If you want to drive out of town to see nearby attractions, just relax. You will spend most of your in-town time in a perpetual gridlock. Not to worry. No one is going to get there before you do. They're stuck too.

The best thing about our trip to Eureka Springs? The weather was fantastic until midafternoon Saturday. Then it started to thunder, and it poured rain for the rest of the day. You know what? Fellow travelers we met from Texas, Kansas, northern Missouri and southern Arkansas were smiling. It had been a long time since any of us had heard thunder, much less seen a gully-washer.

The rain was the topic of conversation everywhere we went. It made everyone happy. That's right. Happy.

We'll be happy to go back to Eureka Springs anytime we need rain.

~R. Joe Sullivan is the editor of the Southeast Missourian.