New judges help maintain barbecue contest standards

POUGHKEEPSIE, N.Y. -- After four hours of intense study, the 60 students stood, raised their right hands, faced west and recited a pledge to uphold truth, justice and the American way.

"I do solemnly swear to objectively and subjectively evaluate each barbecue meat that is presented to my eyes, my nose, my hands and my palate," the students chanted with their instructor as they looked in the direction of Kansas City, Mo.

And thus were minted another batch of Kansas City Barbeque Society certified judges, part of the growing army of backyard connoisseurs needed to administer justice in the hugely popular world of competitive barbecue.

It's also a big business. Fueled in part by attention from food media, interest in barbecue competitions has skyrocketed.

Since 2000, the Kansas City group has seen the number of competitions it sponsors jump from 94 to more than 250 this year. The Arlington, Texas-based International Barbecue Cookers Association went from 75 to 130 during the same period.

"When I started in the mid-80s, if you had 20 cooks you considered that a huge venue," Jeff Shivers, executive director of the International Barbecue group, said. "Now if you have 50, that's considered small."

But more competitions means more judges are needed, spotlighting the previously obscure world of barbecue judging schools, most of which are run by the regional and national barbecue associations that sponsor competitions.

Ten years ago, the Kansas City association ran about five one-day schools a year. Today, classes, which average about $75, are held around the country virtually every weekend. The group has certified more than 8,000 judges.