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FeaturesJanuary 18, 1995

How can anyone speak of amaryllis without using a superlative? Gorgeous, spectacular, magnificent, are all used to describe this large plant. Its stem is the tallest, its blooms are the largest of any flowering house plant, and it is one of the easiest to grow. These flowers can be grown at any time of the year, yet they are as much of the holiday season as Christmas trees and mistletoe...

How can anyone speak of amaryllis without using a superlative? Gorgeous, spectacular, magnificent, are all used to describe this large plant.

Its stem is the tallest, its blooms are the largest of any flowering house plant, and it is one of the easiest to grow. These flowers can be grown at any time of the year, yet they are as much of the holiday season as Christmas trees and mistletoe.

They make wonderful gifts, particularly for shut-ins to watch. They can see the speed with which they emerge, from the time they peek their noses from that enormous bulb, until they burst in bloom in stunning flowers up to 8 inches in diameter in white, pink and red.

Besides being a spectacular flower, the amaryllis is one of the easiest to force. Especially easy are the pre-planted ones we received for winter blooming. These are now opening. They are not really pre-planted, but come ready for planting along with simple instructions.

Unlike most bulbs, amaryllis do not need cool and then warm temperatures, but instead must have a wet-dry cycle. The bloom is already inside the bulb. Within days after it is brought to a warm place and moisture added the stalk begins to appear.

Heat is essential to boost initial growth. When the bulb sprouts its first leaves, move the plant to a sunny place and water regularly, never letting the soil dry out. As the buds begin to open, move them away from direct sunlight. This will help to prolong the life of this splendid flower.

Sometimes to hold the heavy bloom erect the plant might need to be staked. However, if the pot is turned several times each day, the bloom stalk will continue to turn toward the sunshine and a stake may not be necessary.

When flowers fade, cut only the flower stalk to 2 inches and return the post to a sunny spot. Flowering takes longer in the winter than in the spring. On the average, it is six to eight weeks from potting to flowering. Never cut off the leaves. They will continue to grow.

Amaryllis are heavy feeders and need fertilizer to build next year's food supply. When the flower buds appear, it may need water every day.

It is important to leave the foliage growing after it has finished blooming. Feed and water as you would any other house plant. After all the danger of frost has passed, you may sink the pot and bulb in the garden, where it will have some sun each day. At summer's end take the plant indoors to a cool spot such as the basement floor and lay in on its side. Let it rest there for about six weeks. Only then can you cut off its wilted foliage.

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To awaken the bulb from its rest, bring it to a slightly warmer place and give it a small amount of moisture. Do not overdo the watering, at least not at first. When the conditions and time are right, possibly in six weeks, the new growth will begin.

Although amaryllis sold for Christmas or Easter blooms usually make it on schedule for that holiday, future timing is tricky.

Here in a nutshell is a yearly amaryllis schedule: Spring and summer is for active growth, to fatten the bulbs. Autumn is when they are dry and resting, and winter is for flowering and the beginning of new growth.

The brilliant red amaryllis was discovered growing wild in Africa during the southern hemisphere's summer and was carried by a fascinated botanist to England. The very next winter when it was once again bloom time in Africa, the bulb surprised Londoners by bursting into bloom on Christmas Day!

PAPERWHITES

Another choice gift was a pot of paperwhite narcissus, which now have finished flowering, but the fragrance of their blossoms lingers on.

Paperwhites are also a joy to watch grow, mature and bloom. They are like roots, so water the pot thoroughly to start growth. When the leaves appear, fill up the saucer (or water the pot) making sure the roots do not dry out.

Place in a bright window and enjoy for a couple of weeks or so.

After flowering, remove the dead flowers and stems, but leave the leaves as they will continue to grow. Plant the bulbs, with the leaves still on them after all danger of frost has passed. Then plant them about 6 inches deep in the garden and let the foliage die down.

Like other forced bulbs, they may not bloom the next spring but should bloom after that for years to come.

~Mary Blue is a resident of Cape Girardeau and an avid gardener.

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