Julia Child's essential wisdom

"Julia's Kitchen Wisdom," originally released nearly a decade ago as a companion to a two-hour PBS special of the same name, has been rereleased to capitalize on Hollywood's impending "Julie & Julia," the story of a woman who cooks her way through Julia Child's "Mastering the Art of French Cooking, Volume I." Some copies even have a sticker advertising the film.

That said, this is a book any serious, frequent home cook wants in the kitchen. Think of it as a kind of Cliffs Notes to the techniques and recipes of one of the world's most accomplished and iconic chefs. It caters to people who know their way around the kitchen but sometimes forget just how long to roast a chicken or the butter-to-flour ratio in a bechamel.

The book is built on basics: how to whip up a vinaigrette, doctor canned chicken broth, dress up leftovers in a souffle and how to keep vegetables green by blanching then plunging them into an ice bath. Scattered throughout are indispensable fixes, like how to revive wilted greens.

Each chapter offers a master recipe, such as sauted beef steaks, followed by variations that apply the technique to different situations and ingredients. Complicated dishes, such as molded dessert custards are joined by simpler fare like potato and leek soup.

Though Julia could plow through nearly 600 pounds of butter a year, she wasn't all cream and cow fat. Her recipes for fat-free cream soups thickened with pureed rice are still well ahead of their time.

-- The Associated Press