Homesickness and hymns push kayak on

DAY 18: Thirty-two slow miles today from Hastings to Lake Pepin. The river between the locks and dams is just a big lake with almost no current and most of the work falls on me. Had breakfast with Byron Curtis this morning...

I'm so tired I'm dozing off while writing this.

DAY 19: Happy Birthday toots! Fatigue got the best of me last night. I went to sleep while writing. As I was saying -- Byron (Hardesty's mentor who wrote a book about his own journey down the Mississippi River) treated me to breakfast at the Slip In Cafe in Prescott. We had a good talk and found we share a similar outlook on many topics. We both like to push ourselves outside our comfort zones.

Before I shoved off from the Prescott dock, Byron said a prayer for my continued safety and ultimate successful completion. I really appreciated that and told him that's the last thing I do each morning before I push off.

One of my favorite paddling songs is "Love Lifted Me," the words seem very appropriate for this trip.

The breakfast made for a late start and I really had to push it to get where I needed to be last night so I could cross Lake Pepin today.

The lake is too big to be in a kayak in the middle, so I had to follow the shore line.

I paddled for three hours then stopped for a break to call Marla and sing "Happy Birthday" to her. By the time I got back on the water the wind had risen to 15 miles per hour. It felt like paddling through mud.

I found a nice campground here in Wabasha with a brand new shower building!

DAY 20: Well, the weather forecast was right. It took 13 hours to paddle 32 miles to Winona. The wind and rain lasted most of the day.

Near the town of Fountain City, Wis., it started raining again. I pulled over and put on my poncho, but it's hard to paddle in a poncho and I made slow progress. The kayak felt like I was dragging an anchor behind me.

At 5 p.m., I was about to give up and make camp at Fountain City when my cell phone rang. It was Marla. Hearing her voice was the boost I needed. I pushed on and made it to Winona by 6:30 p.m.

DAY 21: The sky was still threatening rain when I left Winona this morning. It just stayed overcast and calm until after noon. I made my goal of La Crosse, Wis. by 3 p.m. today. I am halfway home!

DAY 22: Got started this morning at 6:30 a.m. I took a break at Black Hawk Marina south of Victory, Wis. Called home from a pay phone because I didn't have a cell signal.

I saw a flock of pelicans today, but they wouldn't let me get close enough for a photo.

At 1:30 p.m. today I left Minnesota on the west bank and entered Iowa. Minnesota takes good care of the young Mississippi; I was impressed by how clean it was.

Tomorrow I'll start using my Corps of Engineers river navgiational charts. Looking at all the names of bends, points and the special notes is mind boggling. It's hard to imagine the old steam boat pilotsd, like young Sam Clemens, had all this memorized.

I am a big Mark Twain fan and I'm sure that had something to do with this trip. Twain's "Life on the Mississippi" is my favorite book by him. Passing by Hannibal, Mo., will be a special treat.

Tomorrow's goal is Marquette or McGreger, Iowa.This trip has been a real learning experience. Here's one lesson: don't leave your dirty clothes in a mesh bag on the top of the kayak.

Why you ask? Because when it rains, the clothes get soaked and it adds so much weight you feel like you're dragging an anchor.

DAY 23: Made it to Marquette at 4 p.m. I now have 712.5 miles down, 582.5 miles to go -- at least 30 miles each day, push, push. I'm trying to not become obsessed with the daily mileage, but it's hard. The farther you get along, the faster you want to go.

I think it boils down to being homesick. Today was Sunday and the pleasure boaters were out in full force. Some of the boat generates wave four feet high from trough to crest.

I found three more songs today that are good to paddle to: "Streets of Larado", "Nearer my God to Thee" and "Faded Love". I don't know the words so I just whistle.

There is a big "Isle of Capri" casion across from where I'm camped in Marquette tonight. People going into the casino were staring across at my little tent. I thought about making a sign that said "I lost it all at Isle of Capri."

Physically, I'm still holding up okay. My left big toe seems very put out by this whole ordeal though. It went to sleep about a week ago and refuses to wake up. I'm asking no more of that toe than my others, so I don't understand its attitude. Now that I think about it though, that toe pulled the same trick during Army basic training in 1969.

DAY 24: I'm camped on a sandy beach five miles past Cassville, Wis. Cassville is a boater-friendly town, even for paddlers. Tomorrow I'll leave Wisconsin and enter Illinois. My camp will be in the boonies again.

I talked to students in Ms. Lowrance's class, where I volunteer, at Blanchard Elementary today. That was a special treat to hear their voices.

DAY 25: I don't usually write in my journal in the mornings but I had to get this down while the impression was still fresh: WOLF!

I saw a big, dark-colored wolf near my tent during the night. I woke up to the sounds and lights of a barge passing. I've been told the Delta Queen is up river from me heading south, so I looked out to see if it might be the Queen. It was just a barge, but as its search light swept over my kayak I saw the wolf standing by TPII.

I was told to expect to see wolves here but this was my first and I'm 20 miles north of Dubuque, Iowa.

I thought of every book and movie I've read and seen, from "The Three Little Pigs" to "Cry Wolf" to "The Howling". A part of me expected to hear a throaty oice at the door telling me to open up or he'd blow my tent down. To which I would reply, "Not by the hair on my chinny, chin, chin.

From Animal Planet, I knew that they most likely target the sick, wounded or older prey. Well, I'm not sick or wounded, but in case Mr. Wolf thinks 55 is old, I cranked up my radio on a hard rock station.

It must have worked because I didn't see or hear any more of him.

Tonight, I'm camped 13 miles south of Dubuque. I used side channels to avoid most of the barge traffic there. Turning in early tonigh so I can try to get to Savanahh, Ill.

I stopped at a marina in Massey, Iowa just before making camp and told a store manager my wolf story. He shot me down and said there haven't been any wolves this far south since his grandpa's time.

He said was a I probably saw was a "coydog" a coyote/domestic mix.

DAY 26: Hard day! A head wind started at 8:30 a.m. and quickly increased to 15 or 20 miles per hour. It was still blowing when I got to Savana.

DAY 27: Made it across pool 13 with no trouble. This is the widest part of the river until it reaches the Gulf. It started raining as I was locking through and continued until 4 p.m. I was hoping to make 34 miles to Cordova, Ill., but instead ran out of energy and quit at 30 miles miles. I'm camped in the boonies.

From here until I get past the last lock is going to be the toughest part, both mentally and physically.

DAY 28: Passed locks 14 and 15 today and the quad cities of Bettendorf, Iowa, Moline, Ill., Davenport, Iowa and Rock Island, Ill. Lots of industries and casinos.

I'm in Andulusia, Ill. tonight. Another 34 miles down. I'm having all-you-can-eat catfish in the Family Cafe.

I think part of my run-down condition in the afternoon is because I'm not eating right during the day. I've been drinking plain water and eating at least four granola or trailmix bars. Today I had a sports dink and a PowerBar. The difference in my energy level was very noticable.

I should have known better, I've done enough long distance runs to know the importance of proper hydration and and carbohydrates.

Today is the end of the fourth week. I've come 874 miles with 421 left. It's more work now than fun. But that's part of it.