Gotta Horchata?

Given the ubiquity of rice in Mexican restaurants you might think the grain is central to the country's cuisine. But to the contrary, per capita consumption of rice in Mexico is about one-fifth of that in neighboring Belize. Moreover, rice in Mexico is restaurant food, seldom cooked by Mexicans at home.

There is, no doubt, more than one reason for this, but one of the foremost is the fact that Mexicans consider rice a food of conquest and colonialism, brought to the New World by the conquistadors, and altogether different than, say, indigenous beans or corn, the latter a food to which Mexicans feel a spiritual connection

But Mexico's relationship to rice is complicated. For example, there is one food, actually a beverage, that's very popular in Mexico, a perfectly authentic way to celebrate Cinco de Mayo, which is just around the corner, and one of its main ingredients is rice. It's horchata, a creamy, cinnamony drink, one of any number of what are called aguas frescas, literally "fresh waters," thirst-quenchers that are every bit as bold and satisfying as Mexican food itself.

But the origins of horchata actually go back much farther than the Spanish conquest of the Aztecs in the 16th century. The ancient Romans had a similar drink based not on rice but on barley. The drink, or something very similar, can even be traced all the way back to 2400 B.C. to North Africa, where it was made with sweetened and ground tiger nuts.

In fact, as the beverage flowed from country to country it was adopted and adapted to a wide variety of base ingredients. In Puerto Rico it's made with toasted sesame seeds. In El Salvador, Nicaragua, Honduras, and Costa Rica jicaro or morro seeds, which can have a licorice-like flavor, are the base. In Ecuador it is made with a red infusion of some eighteen herbs. In Guatemala it can be made with melon seeds, usually cantaloupe. In Spain, particularly Valencia, tiger nuts are the preferred ingredient and there's even a government agency charged with ensuring the quality of the product. In Mexico horchata is made with rice, principally because tiger nuts, part of the original formulation, were not readily available.

Besides being eminently refreshing, horchata is also said to be healthy. Some claim it's even an aphrodisiac. And it's an excellent way to soothe an upset stomach in case you happen to consume one too many tacos on Cinco de Mayo.

A clever way to streamline the process of making Mexican horchata is to use rice flour which does not require the soaking and grinding that uncooked rice does.Submitted by Tom Harte

A clever way to streamline the process of making Mexican horchata is to use rice flour which does not require the soaking and grinding that uncooked rice does.Submitted by Tom Harte

Homemade horchata

Here are two recipes for horchata. Both are easy, but one takes far less time to make. The first is a traditional recipe adapted from Rick Bayless, whose Chicago restaurant may well be the best Mexican eatery I've ever been to outside of the City of Palaces. It calls for almonds as well as rice. The other is a clever recipe adapted from Martha Stewart. It streamlines the process by using rice flour, which requires no soaking or grinding. If you like your horchata with a kick, add rum to make what is called Rumchata, and if you're a coffee drinker add a shot or two of espresso for a latte that rivals anything Starbucks has to offer.

Traditional horchata

• 6 tablespoons long-grain white rice
• 1 and 1/4 cups whole blanched almonds
• 1-inch stick cinnamon
• 1 cup sugar

Pulverize the rice in a blender or spice grinder. Place in a bowl with almonds and cinnamon and cover with 2-½ cups hot tap water. Let stand covered for 6 hours or overnight. Puree the mixture in a blender for 4 minutes until no longer gritty. Add 2 cups water, blend a few seconds, and then strain a little at a time through a sieve lined with cheesecloth squeezing out all liquid. Add 2 cups water and stir in sugar to taste. If too thick, thin with more water. Serve over ice.

The main ingredients of Horchata Rapida, a streamlined version of the traditional version. are whole milk, rice flour, and sweetened condensed milk.Submitted by Tom Harte

The main ingredients of Horchata Rapida, a streamlined version of the traditional version. are whole milk, rice flour, and sweetened condensed milk.Submitted by Tom Harte

Horchata Rapida

• 4 cups whole milk
• 1 cinnamon stick
• 1 can (14 ounces) sweetened condensed milk
• 1/2 cup rice flour
• 2 teaspoons vanilla

Bring milk and cinnamon stick to a simmer over medium heat. Remove from heat and whisk in remaining ingredients. Refrigerate 30 minutes, strain, and serve over ice. Garnish with ground cinnamon or cinnamon sticks if desired.