Foam sweet foam

Anne Byrn, the Cake Mix Doctor, knows a lot more about cakes than how to jazz up one from a box. Recently I saw in her newsletter a post about the schaum torte, a dessert of meringue, whipped cream, and strawberries found up north, principally in Wisconsin. Some sources go so far as to say it is virtually unknown outside the Badger State.

But I live in Missouri and I know what a schaum torte is and have made it many times, thanks to the 1977 edition of the "Joy of Cooking." Alas, that is the last edition in which the recipe made an appearance, which is why I have kept it despite having all of the succeeding editions.

St. Louisan Irma Rombauer, the principal author of the "Joy of Cooking," was of German heritage which may explain why she knew her way around a schaum torte, for the torte also is of Germanic origin. The name translates to "foam cake," the foam referring to the meringue.

Meringue, of course, is one of the magical concoctions you can create in the kitchen, raw egg whites bearing little resemblance to the billowy swirls of fluff you get when you beat them. Since its invention, perhaps as far back as the 16th century, it has been used not only to top lemon pies, but as the basis of spectacular desserts in which it is paired with whipped cream, the schaum torte my favorite among them.

Besides the schaum torte there's the Pavlova (named after the famous ballerina) which is similar enough to the schaum torte that some say the torte is just a German version of the Pavlova, though it might be just as easily argued that the Pavlova is merely an Australian schaum torte. Both Australia and New Zealand claim to have invented it. Typically a single layer or slab of meringue slathered with whipped cream, it is usually topped with passionfruit or kiwi rather than strawberries.

Meringue, one of the most magical kitchen concoctions, is the basis for many spectacular desserts.Submitted by Tom Harte

Meringue, one of the most magical kitchen concoctions, is the basis for many spectacular desserts.Submitted by Tom Harte

Then there's the Gâteau Concorde, invented by Gaston Lenôtre, then in charge of catering for Air France, for its supersonic Concorde flights. It features chocolate mousse sandwiched between chocolate meringue layers all enrobed in meringue cylinders.

And then there's the granddaddy of all of these, the Spanish Wind Torte, described by Time-Life's "The Cooking of Vienna's Empire," where fifty-five years ago I first read about it, as the "most beautiful of Vienna's round cakes, a baroque triumph in conception, design and execution, besides tasting of heaven ..." An elaborately decorated receptacle made of meringue rings, it is filled with whipped cream and berries and topped with a lid of meringue. It constituted one of the most difficult challenges ever on Britain's The Great British Bake Off and stole a scene in the movie "Harry Potter and the Chamber of Secrets" when it crashed to the floor and shattered.

The Food Network's Alton Brown observes that meringue is "really nothing but a foam." But with meringue-based desserts like the schaum torte, nothing but foam can be really something.

Springform pans make it easy to make perfect layers of meringue for a schaum torte.Submitted by Tom Harte

Springform pans make it easy to make perfect layers of meringue for a schaum torte.Submitted by Tom Harte

Schaum Torte

This recipe, adapted from the "Joy of Cooking", is easier than it looks and even easier when using the all-in-one method adapted from the Chelsea Sugar Refinery website which takes the guesswork out of making meringue.

• 6 egg whites
• 2 1/4 cups sugar
• 1 1/2 teaspoons vinegar
• 1 1/2 teaspoons vanilla
• 3 tablespoons boiling water
• 2 cups heavy cream
• 1 quart sliced strawberries

Combine egg whites, sugar, vinegar, vanilla, and boiling water and beat on high speed with an electric mixer for ten minutes until stiff peaks form. Divide evenly between two nine-inch greased and floured springform pans with bottoms lined with parchment paper. Bake at 275 degrees for 30 minutes, lower temperature to 250 degrees and bake another 30 minutes. Turn off oven and leave meringues to cool at least one hour. Remove from pans and discard parchment paper. Wash and dry one pan and place one meringue layer on the bottom. Whip cream and spread half evenly over top. Layer half of strawberries over whipped cream. Place second meringue layer on top and spread with remaining whipped cream. Decorate with remaining strawberries. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate for 1-2 hours before removing from pan and serving.

A slice of schaum torte reveals the meringue, whipped cream, and strawberries which together make for a decadent dessert.Submitted by Tom Harte

A slice of schaum torte reveals the meringue, whipped cream, and strawberries which together make for a decadent dessert.Submitted by Tom Harte