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FeaturesJanuary 19, 2003

NEW YORK -- When fashion followers hear the word "winter," chills go down their spines. They envision pouffy, Michelin Man-style coats that camouflage chunky sweaters, which, in turn, conceal gym-toned figures; they think of hats with floppy ears that cover up stylish hairdos; and they cringe at the image of thick lotions that protect skin but leave an undesirable shine...

By Samantha Critchell, The Associated Press

NEW YORK -- When fashion followers hear the word "winter," chills go down their spines.

They envision pouffy, Michelin Man-style coats that camouflage chunky sweaters, which, in turn, conceal gym-toned figures; they think of hats with floppy ears that cover up stylish hairdos; and they cringe at the image of thick lotions that protect skin but leave an undesirable shine.

Erase those thoughts. Makers of winter wear say it's time to lighten up.

Staying warm doesn't have to mean bundling up in bulky outerwear. In fact, your body will thank you for each thin layer of clothing you put on.

"Technology has changed so much so that you don't have to go bulky," says Sandra Rossi, senior vice president of active outerwear for L.L. Bean. "Fabrics now are efficient, warmer, thinner, and will keep you more comfortable."

The key to staying warm is to keep moisture away from the body. Whether they're caused by perspiration, rain or snow, wet clothes will make you cold.

Think fleece

When you get dressed, start with synthetic long underwear, Rossi advises. But these polyester products aren't your mother's version; the construction of the knit is soft, with a cottonlike hand, and the yarns actually are shaped and fabric is knit to allow for moisture transfer.

(Cotton, once wet, stays wet, Rossi explains.)

Fleece, which can be thin enough to wear as the middle layer or thick enough to be used as a jacket, is an ideal layering fabric because its density holds in warmth and keeps wind out -- and it dries quickly, she says.

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Wool is still a great insulator but it gets heavy when wet and it will take a long time to dry.

People do, of course, still buy wool sweaters, and chunky knits are particularly trendy this year, but they're more for fashion than function.

Jackets even take a tiered approach, often including both an insulation layer and a windproof and waterproof layer, each of which can be worn separately on warmer days.

"The rule of thumb for layering is light to heavy," says Caren Bell, spokeswoman for Tommy Hilfiger, an official sponsor of the U.S. Freestyle Ski Team and provider of the team's uniforms.

The primary fabric of Tommy Hilfiger's jackets is a waterproof, breathable, performance twill, and seams on the garments are taped to block the wind.

The Ski Team outfits need to be sleek so the skiers pick up speed on the snow and sail through air during their aerial stunts. The athletes offered input throughout the design process, says Bell, to make sure the garments would bend and move according to their needs. The clothes also have strategically placed zippers and vents to offer some easily adjustable climate control.

The layering formula works well for hands and feet, too, with a wicking product coupled with a waterproof shell, according to Rossi.

But it's hard to wear layers on the head so a wind-resistant wool hat makes the most sense as a topper. Some people, though, have "an aversion" to fitted wool hats so there are products such as more fashion-forward fleece baseball caps and cloches that offer warmth while still fitting into your everyday wardrobe, Rossi says.

"You don't have to go out there looking like Elmer Fudd," she adds.

Since most people can't go out covered head to toe -- it would be hard for them to see! -- exposed parts of the skin also need protection from the elements.

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