Chinese New Year is celebrated with plenty of vegetarian dishes

NEW YORK -- A reminder: Feb. 1 marks the beginning of the Chinese New Year, the Year of the Ram. In China and Chinatowns around the world that means parades, firecrackers and food. Lots of food.

Martin Yan, master chef, cookbook writer and host of PBS cooking shows, has just the recipe to recommend from his latest book, "Martin Yan's Chinatown Cooking."

His choice is a version of "jai," the classic vegetarian dish which he says is often served at the beginning of the New Year.

Interviewed on a recent visit to New York, he linked the inclusion of vegetarian dishes to the belief that "thou shalt not kill," and pointed out that people pay special attention to the symbolism of foods at New Year. The whole menu of foods for Chinese holidays is changed to use certain words, to convey wishes for prosperity, he explained.

"At the New Year, there is always a vegetable dish even if you are not Buddhist," he said, recalling that Buddhism, a major influence in Chinese culture, includes vegetarianism.

"The Chinese like to observe a gentler beginning for the New Year," he explained.

"There are many different versions of jai -- you can create your own," Yan said. "It's generally a combination of fresh vegetables, as well as dehydrated items such as mushrooms. A few basic ingredients would be shiitake mushrooms, straw mushrooms, gingko nuts, tofu in several forms."

"At Vegetarian Paradise 3 in New York City, a popular stir-fry combines fresh and dried vegetables to give a complexity of treasures. Don't be limited by the ingredient list; substitute your favorite vegetables," Yan writes about the following jai dish.

Market Basket Vegetable Stir-Fry

3 dried black mushrooms

4 dried wood ear mushrooms

1 piece dried snow fungus (optional)

2 tablespoons oyster-flavored sauce

1 tablespoon soy sauce

2 teaspoons sesame oil

2 tablespoons vegetable oil

2 garlic cloves, minced

1 cup broccoli florets

1 cup cauliflower florets

1/2 cup diced (1 inch squares) purple cabbage

1/2 cup vegetable stock or canned vegetable broth

1/2 cup snow peas, trimmed

1/2 cup bean sprouts

Put the black mushrooms, wood ears and snow fungus in separate small bowls and pour enough warm water over them to cover. Soak until softened, about 20 minutes. Drain. Discard the black mushroom stems and cut the caps in half. Thinly slice the wood ears. Discard the hard yellow portion of the snow fungus, then cut the remainder into bite-sized pieces.

Prepare the seasonings: Stir the oyster-flavored sauce, soy sauce and sesame oil together in a small bowl.

Heat a wok over high heat until hot. Add the oil and swirl to coat the sides. Add the garlic and stir-fry until fragrant, about 20 seconds. Add the broccoli, cauliflower, cabbage, vegetable stock, black mushrooms, wood ears and snow fungus, cover the wok, and cook until cauliflower is tender-crisp, 2 to 2 1/2 minutes.

Add the seasonings, snow peas and sprouts and stir-fry until the snow peas are tender, about 1 minute. Scoop onto a serving platter and serve.

Makes 4 servings, as part of a multi-course meal.

Recipe from "Martin Yan's Chinatown Cooking," published by William Morrow.