Cape Girardeau County: Pilot House in Cape Girardeau is home to high quality ingredients, familiar faces

Just because a restaurant is positioned just a penalty stroke away from a golf course doesn't make it upscale and pricey.

The Pilot House Restaurant, 3532 Perryville Road in Cape Girardeau, has been driving home that point since 1961.

While it's an oasis for golfers from Cape Jaycee Municipal Golf Course, it's a favorite destination for both local residents and those from other zip codes who may have caught wind of this unpolished gem.

"We kind of look at this as the greatest little secret in town," says Jim Byrd, who has owned the Pilot House since 1986. "A lot of people don't even know about this place."

And should they stumble on the joint, initial impressions of little more than a shack can be underwhelming.

LAURA SIMON ~ lsimon@semissourian.com The Pilot House in Cape Girardeau.

"When they see the outside, I think they think, 'Yikes, what are we pulling up into?'" manager Ryan Raney says.

What they're stepping into is an unexpected pleasure -- heaping sandwiches, cold beverages, friendly service and more.

First-timers may still be in a wait-and-see mode after crossing the threshold. The quaint, simple interior wastes no time on introductions -- you're in the dining area/bar upon entry. There's no view of the outside world, and seating capacity is around 65, provided by no-frill tables and chairs that turn fellow customers into neighbors.

The cross-section of patrons ranges from blue collar to professional.

"It's a beautiful blend of those people, and they sit around and talk to each other," Byrd says. "The tables are kind of close. It's just comfortable -- a friendly place. I think people are looking for a place like that, and they don't always find it in the oak and brass bars."

LAURA SIMON ~ lsimon@semissourian.com Stuffed mushrooms, a twice-baked potato and a Big Hot Cheese are served at the Pilot House in Cape Girardeau.

Byrd uses the Yogi-ism of baseball great Yogi Berra when he talks about the restaurant, which usually features a jammed lot on Friday and Saturday evenings: "Nobody goes there anymore because it's always so crowded."

They do go there, but in the chance someone hasn't been in the establishment for a couple of decades, they'll find not much has changed. The pilot wheel from riverboat captain Ralph Brockmeyer, who originally opened the business, still hangs above the bar. Four flat-screen TVs are about the only nod to the advancement of civilization, and updates have been made to preserve the look, allowing Byrd to uncork his own Yogi-ism.

"Everything here is new and changed, except it's rustic," Byrd says. "It's still the same."

Even the help tends to hang around, lending to a comfortable, familiar feeling.

Raney grew tired of more structured chain restaurants and is on his second stint at the restaurant. He points to waitress Carletta Bohnert, who he says has been an employee for 20 years.

LAURA SIMON ~ lsimon@semissourian.com The Pilot House in Cape Girardeau.

"It's kind of nice to go somewhere where you have someone like Carletta walking around every day taking care of you," Raney says. "You see the same face. It's not this influx of 18-year-old kids waiting on you every day, trying to sell you everything under the sun. It's very relaxed, nice. I think that's what they like."

They also like the food. A menu that caters to a variety of tastes is what really ties the place together.

Two customized large smokers from Ole Hickory Pits set the stage on multiple fronts.

The restaurant originally specialized in barbecue, but has expanded its menu over the years to include a variety of favorites.

Ribeye, Philly cheese steak, Reuben and brisket sandwiches are among the options, and arrive ready to take on an appetite.

LAURA SIMON ~ lsimon@semissourian.com The Pilot House in Cape Girardeau.

"We don't skimp on anything," Byrd says. "It's really heaping portions of everything."

Raney says The Tank -- marinated prime rib, ham with jalapeños and Swiss and American cheese on grilled sourdough bread -- is a favorite of many, but so are the half-pound burgers made from fresh ground beef and fresh fried catfish fillets, coated with a special seasoning.

"We sell a lot of everything," Raney says. "I wouldn't say there's one thing on the menu that doesn't move here. But definitely people come here for the food. I'd say 90 percent of that menu is made from scratch. I think that shows, too."

On weekends, giant kabobs consisting of beef tenderloin, peppers, onions and mushrooms are available while supplies last.

"It's really enough for two people," Byrd says. "It's really popular. We usually sell out of that on Friday night and don't even have enough for Saturday, but we only make so many."

LAURA SIMON ~ lsimon@semissourian.com The Pilot House in Cape Girardeau.

The appetizers include Buffalo-style wings and stuffed mushrooms, while a popular twice-baked potato is among the sides.

Byrd says he now buys exclusively from one wholesaler, Middendorf out of St. Louis, whom he's formed a tight relationship with over the past 30 years.

"He understands me and this place and what we're trying to do here, and we can not compromise quality in any way," Byrd says. "We always buy the best quality food we can buy. Even the ketchup is the best. French's mustard. Everything we do is not generic. It's first class."

Pilot House, says Raney, is among the type of places that have gained popularity over the years through the adventures of host Guy Fieri on "Diners, Drive-ins and Dives" on the Food Network.

"It's very different when you walk in here," Raney says. "You don't expect the food to match what you see at all. It's definitely a unique little place."

LAURA SIMON ~ lsimon@semissourian.com Pennies cover the bar at the Pilot House in Cape Girardeau.