California's cuisine shows Mediterranean influence

Santa Barbara, Calif., has often been thought of as a kind of American Riviera, with its balmy year-round Mediterranean climate, blue sea and red-tile roofed villas.

In the same vein are nearby acres of lemon, avocado and olive orchards, and vineyards. Which naturally leads to the subject of food.

The regional bounty of appetizing ingredients seems to have inspired a crop of savvy chefs, and there's a lively interest in good cooking, especially given the availability of fresh fish from the Pacific -- think spot prawns and spiny lobsters.

Here are a couple of summery recipes offered by local chefs, adapted for the home cook to give your menus an American Riviera touch. Look for fresh ingredients in your own markets as near the originals as can be found. One of the cool-climate Santa Barbara wines would make a nice accompaniment to the meal.

Golden Tomato with Calamari, Corn, Feta Cheese and Greens, Gazpacho Dressing

(Recipe by Martin Frost, La Marina)

3 medium yellow tomatoes, peeled, cut in half and seeded

1/2 cup calamari (squid rings), sliced

1 medium corn on the cob

1/4 cup feta cheese, grated

1/4 cup micro greens (assorted baby or organic greens, as available)

1/2 teaspoon chives, chopped

1/4 cup olive oil

1 clove garlic, minced

1 teaspoon sweet chili sauce

1 lime, juiced

Salt and pepper to taste

Optional garnish: small slices of toast

Preheat oven to 350 degrees.

Over medium heat, in 1 teaspoon of olive oil, saute the squid and the minced garlic for 3 minutes; remove from pan and allow to cool.

Brush the corn with a little olive oil and season, wrap in foil and bake in a 350-degree oven for 20 minutes. Allow to cool, then remove the corn kernels from the husk.

In a small bowl combine the calamari, corn, feta, greens, chives, chili sauce, lime juice and remaining olive oil; toss lightly, and season to taste with salt and pepper.

Fill each half of yellow tomato with the calamari-corn salad. To serve, place each filled half in the center of a plate or bowl and surround with a ladle-full of gazpacho dressing. Add toast slices, if desired.

For the Gazpacho Dressing:

2 medium vine-ripened tomatoes, peeled and seeded

1 1/2 cups tomato juice

1 tablespoon lemon juice

1 tablespoon chopped onion

1 tablespoon diced celery

2 tablespoons peeled, diced cucumber

1 teaspoon chopped cilantro

Dash hot pepper sauce

1 clove garlic, peeled

1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil

Salt and pepper to taste

Blend all ingredients together for 20 seconds. Resulting gazpacho dressing should be lightly chunky in texture.

Makes 6 servings.

Parfait of Lemon Curd, Passion Fruit Sorbet, Summer Berries, Toasted Pistachios and Swiss Meringue

(Recipe by Cynthia Miranda, Mondial)

For the Meringue:

4 egg whites, large, room temperature

1 cup sugar

Pinch cream of tartar

1/2 teaspoon pure vanilla extractFor the Lemon Curd:

6 egg yolks, large

3/4 cup sugar

1 tablespoon lemon zest, finely grated

1/2 cup fresh lemon juice

1/2 cup unsalted butter, cut into piecesFor the Parfait:

1 cup passion fruit sorbet, homemade or store-bought (see note)

1/2 cup ripe blackberries

1/2 cup ripe blueberries

1/2 cup pistachios, toasted and roughly chopped

1/2 cup heavy cream, whippedTo prepare Meringue:

Whisk egg whites, sugar and cream of tartar in a heatproof bowl set over a pan of simmering water until sugar is dissolved and whites are hot to the touch, about 3 to 3 1/2 minutes. Remove from heat. Beat on low speed, gradually increasing to high, until stiff, glossy peaks form, about 10 minutes. Beat in the vanilla.

Preheat oven to 200 degrees. Line two large, rimmed sheet trays with parchment paper.

Fit a pastry bag with a star tip; fill with meringue. Using half of the meringue, pipe decorative, long, swirly shapes onto one of the trays. Spread remaining half of meringue 3/4-inch thick onto the other tray. Bake 20 minutes. Reduce oven heat to 175 degrees; continue baking until meringue is dry but still white, 35 minutes more, rotating sheets halfway through. Transfer to a wire rack to cool completely. Set aside swirls; crumble meringue sheet.To make Lemon Curd:

Combine yolks, sugar and lemon zest in a heavy-bottom saucepan. Cook over medium-low heat, stirring constantly with a wooden spoon, until mixture is thick enough to coat the back of the spoon, 8 to 10 minutes. Pass the mixture through a fine sieve into a medium bowl. Add butter one piece at a time, stirring after each addition, until butter is melted and combined. Cover with plastic wrap, pressing directly onto the surface to prevent a skin from forming. Refrigerate until firm and thoroughly chilled, at least 1 hour.To assemble the Parfaits:

Layer lemon curd, crumbled meringue, berries and toasted pistachios in six parfait or other decorative glasses, making two layers of each ingredient. Top with whipped cream, garnish with meringue swirls. Serve immediately.

Makes 6 servings.

Note: Key-lime sorbet, coconut ice cream, pineapple sorbet or pineapple ice cream may be substituted for the passion-fruit sorbet.

(Recipe created by Cynthia Miranda, executive chef Mondial restaurant, Santa Barbara, Calif.)