Bounty of buttons

SEDALIA, Mo. -- They can be crafted from wood, steel, glass, plastic, ivory, bread dough and even chicken skin. Most people probably don't think of those items as materials for buttons, but like collector Ellen Alwood of St. Louis said, "They are miniature works of art."

Button collecting has become the third-largest hobby next to stamps and coins, according to Scottie Johnson, of Topeka, Kan., who has been collecting buttons for 45 years.

"When you tell someone you collect and sell buttons, they kind of look at you funny," said Bud Weiser of Dayton, Ohio.

Missouri State Button Society member Linda Taylor said the purpose of collecting buttons is to enjoy their beauty and preserve history. Taylor attended the organization's annual button show last month.

Some button collectors at the show refer to Jean Speights of Houston, Texas, as the Grand Dame of buttons.

"Let me start you with the very best," Speights said. "These are from the 18th century and were worn strictly by men." Older buttons are usually the most expensive and sell for $1,000 to $3,000 apiece.

The quality and artwork on the button make it valuable, Speights said. Small bugs are encased in some of the French buttons from the 18th century. Other French buttons from that period depict a man's mistresses.

He would wear the buttons, not to fasten his clothing, but for decoration, Speights said.

Buttons range from about the size of a half dollar to smaller than a penny. Some are decorated with scenes of people, flowers, lighthouses, dogs, Japanese metalwork, ivory with inlays of pearls, and just about anything else one can imagine.

"It's kind of mind boggling to see how many different kinds and ages [of buttons] there are," said Taylor of Meriam, Kan. "In the past, many collectors were able to find rare button treasures when they bought a jar or box of buttons at an estate or garage sale." Speights said now many people have to go to other collectors or dealers to buy the kind of buttons they want.

"You didn't throw things away back then," she said. "When you discarded garments, you'd take the buttons off before throwing it away." However, not all collectible buttons are old. One seller had a series of Mark Twain buttons made in 2002. Many buttons today are made just for collectors.

The best way to start a button collection is to select a subject and then pick buttons on that topic made with a variety of materials, Speights said.

"Buy what appeals to you," Speights said. "You have to like it. I don't care how good it's supposed to be; you have to like it first." The Missouri State Button Society Show is fairly popular among button dealers and collectors because of the good competition and displays.

"You usually have to wait for someone to die to get a spot as a dealer," she joked.