Being nostalgic at Chan's Restaurant

Unlike many people, nostalgia still runs deep in me this time of year. When most are looking forward to new things and new experiences, I find myself craving the good old days, the before times, the eating-out and movie-going days. In that spirit, I revisited somewhere I haven't been in far too long.

Chan's Restaurant has been in business in Cape Girardeau since 1988. From the pristine aquarium to the Chinese Zodiac place mat, there was nothing quite like it in my experience back in the '90s. When I was a poor teenager and wanted to treat myself, Chan's was there with an amazing lunch special that cost about as much as a "value" meal at a fast food place, but this food was hot and made to order and so much more flavorful than fast food. Plus, I could get two or three meals out of the portions served, so in reality, Chan's was less expensive than fast food.

So, I went searching for my normal and ate at Chan's this week. It was like stepping back in a time machine, and I was 18 again. It is all still there at Chan's. This restaurant knows what it is. No neon lights here, no flashy New Age decor. Just sparkling clean tables still set with those iconic Chinese Zodiac place mats. I still search out my birth year every time (I'm a Serpent, by the way). The aquarium anchors the back wall, always clean, full of happy fish. The walls are full of shadowboxes packed with meticulously folded dollar bill origami. This is truly magical, especially for a child, and my daughter used to marvel at all the tiny animals, clothes, and letters folded with perfection and mounted with care.

We ordered a Dinner for Two, choosing chicken lo mein, cashew chicken, and ham fried rice. We got wonton soup as a starter along with eggrolls, all included in the price. Chan's wonton soup is amazing. It is flavored with long slim strips of smoked pork, and the wontons are huge and well stuffed.

The eggrolls here are something special as well. They are delicately spiced like no other egg roll I've ever tasted. It almost has a cinnamon-y flavor, but that's not quite right either. It is a sweet, smoky, tangy undertone, and Chan's has been using the same recipe since I've been going there. These are my favorite eggrolls, period. On the table, Chan's has a type of sweet and sour sauce that I love. I'm not even sure what it is called, but I douse my eggroll with the sweet, slightly chunky stuff with glee. I'm pretty sure it has some ginger in it, and an eggroll wouldn't be complete without it. Even if you're skeptical and prefer the red sweet and sour sauce, give this one a chance. You won't regret it.

Ham Fried Rice, Chicken Lo Mein, and Cashew Chicken, served on a silver platter at Chan s, as it rightly deserved.Submitted by Rebecca LaClair

The lo mein is packed with dark saucy umami taste. Umami is one of five basic tastes along with salty, sweet, sour, and bitter. It means a pleasant meaty or savory flavor, and this lo mein has it. It is not bland, not even a little, and the chicken strips in the noodles are just as packed with flavor. So much sophistication in such a simple dish is a testament to the skill of those who are cooking in the kitchen.

The cashew chicken is generous with the cashews, and full of the palest strips of chicken, cubes of water chestnuts, and peppers. It is a beautiful dish, covered in a thick white sauce that is begging for rice to soak it up.

And that brings us to the star of the show. Ham Fried Rice is a meal unto its own. It wouldn't need a topping to make a completely satisfying, tongue-pleasing, stomach-filling meal. Meaty, packed with a salty ham and crunchy bean sprouts, it is perfect. Top it with cashew chicken or another entree of your choice, and you have pure nirvana.

These dishes are served on raised silver platters with lids, as they deserve. It is so satisfying to take the lid off and watch the steamy roll off of the food, freshly made just for me and piping hot.

I love this place. Chan's has consistently served quality food in Cape Girardeau for decades, without feeling dated or boring. You can find it at 1159 North Kingshighway, and if you've somehow missed them up until now, give them a try.