ALONG THE MISSISSIPPI: MY MOMMA EATS HERE

Eureka Springs, Ark., is a favorite getaway for me and my husband, Larry Joe. On our first visit many years ago, we were cruising the streets when a tempting aroma filled our noses. Around the next curve, built into a hillside, was BUBBA'S with his pink pig sign, illuminating the words, "It may not look Famous, but it is -- Southern Pit Barbecue!"

Out mouths were watering, but my first impression was that Bubba's did not look like a place where a lady would eat. Larry Joe's opinion was that he would sit on a can in the middle of the highway to eat anything that smelled that good. Being the good sport that I am, I agreed to go in. As we reached the door we broke into laughter, for there was a sign that said, "It's OK, my Momma eats here."

Bubba's interior is a throw-back to the 1950s with wooden booths and linoleum floors. Pink pig lights and photos of well-known visitors line the walls.

Bubba's plates are piled high with BBQ and "just-right" side dishes, including homemade french fries, tangy cold slaw and spicy baked beans and all are served with a big helping of down-home hospitality. We "pig-out" at Bubba's at least once a day when we are in that neck-of-the-woods. At meal time you will find a long line, but it is well worth the wait!

Bubba's BBQ is reminiscent of my great-grandmother Mays' succulent baby-back ribs -- just like the thought of those ribs, makes my mouth water. Most often onion-fried potatoes and Irish soda bread rounded out the menu for that satisfying meal.

Succulent Baby-Back Ribs

4 tablespoons oil

3 pounds baby-back pork ribs or beef short ribs

1 medium onion, chopped

4 tablespoons brown sugar

4 tablespoons Worcestershire sauce

1 cup tomato sauce

1/2 cup catsup

2 tablespoons vinegar

Preheat oven to 325 degrees.

1. Heat oil in a large iron or other heavy ovenproof skillet, and brown ribs well.

2. Drain off excess fat and add chopped onions.

3. Mix remaining ingredients together and pour over ribs.

4. Cover and bake at 325 degrees for 1 to 1 1/2 hours, or until tender and meat pulls easily from the bone.

Yield: 6 servings.

Angie Holtzhouser is author of Drop Dumplin's and Pan-Fried Memories ... Along the Mississippi. Her cookbook is available at local bookstores. In addition, it can be purchased through the mail at: Drop Dumplin's, P.O. Box 10, Lilbourn, Mo. 63862. The price is $19.95, including tax and shipping.