ALONG THE MISSISSIPPI: IF GOD DRANK COFFEE, IT WOULD BE CAFE' BRULOT

Late one night in 1974, I was sitting alone in the Atlanta Airport coffeeshop, silently wailing over the misfortune of missing my connecting fight to Nashville, Tenn., and home. My sorrowful thoughts were interrupted by a stranger with a strong Texas brogue. He said, "You look lower than a snake's belly in a wagon rut." While I was not totally amused, I did let him sit down. Clive was his name.

We made short-order exchanges of our sad airport stories. Then Clive asked if I had ever drunk Cafe' Brulot, and I had not. He said that I would feel better if we pretended that we were drinking Cafe' Brulot, a spiced coffee with a hint of citrus and a touch of brandy.

Then Clive told me this endearing store. In the late 1870s a Texan was traveling in Ireland when he met Clive's great-great-grandmother, Catlin. She was a fair lass, not easily charmed by the Texan. Looking for a way to impress her, the Texan hosted an afternoon affair where Cafe' Brulot was served, a libation that Catlin had never tasted. She was most pleased with both the Texan and the Cafe' Brulot. Catlin always claimed that it was because of the heavenly brew that she decided to become the wife of a Texas rancher.

The Royal N'Orleans Restaurant in Cape Girardeau features a fantastic Cafe' Brulot served in gold-plated cups.

Cafe' Brulot Diabolique Royal N'Orleans style

2 sticks cinnamon

8 whole cloves

3 generous slices of lemon

3 generous slices of orange

1 1/2 tablespoons sugar

3 ounces brandy

3 cups hot strong black coffee

1. Combine cinnamon sticks, cloves, lemon slices, orange slices and sugar with the brandy in a fireproof pan.

2. Heat in a chafing dish over an open flame, or using a stove burner, until the brandy is hot, but not boiling.

3. Light the brandy carefully with a match, and, while flaming, present it to your guests.

4. Agitate the flaming liquid in the pan using a ladle -- with stirring and pouring motions -- for about two minutes, or until the flames subside. This will allow the mixture to marinate and become a spicy, potent concoction.

5. Pour the hot coffee into the brandy mixture.

6. Ladle cafe' brulot into cups, through the strainer or slotted ladle to hold black seeds, peels and spices.

Yield: 3 servings

Angie Holtzhouser is author of Drop Dumplin's and Pan-Fried Memories ... Along the Mississippi. Her cookbook is available at local bookstores. In addition, it can be purchased through the mail at: Drop Dumplin's, P.O. Box 10, Lilbourn, Mo. 63862. The price is $19.95, including tax and shipping.