A HARTE APPETITE: PICKING PERFECT SUMMER BERRIES

"Doubtless God could have made a better berry," opined Dr. William Butler writing in the 16th century about the strawberry, "but doubtless God never did."

His position is tenable, but I wonder whether it represents careful analysis or mere prejudice. Did he consider the akala, a sweet berry from Hawaii, or the wild whortleberry of England, a tart relative of the blueberry? Did he take into account the Scandinavian cloudberry or the Japanese wineberry? Did he ponder the cranberry or its cousin the cowberry? Did he take note of the gooseberry, the indispensable ingredient in that classic English dessert, gooseberry fool?

Obviously he did not study the loganberry or the boysenberry, because the former was not discovered by Judge J. H. Logan of California until around the turn of the century and the latter, a cross between a loganberry, a raspberry, and a blackberry was not invented by Rudolph Boysen until 1923. And what about blackberries and raspberries and, for that matter, elderberries and mulberries? Did he factor these into his deliberations?

Clearly, Butler's assertion about the strawberry may have been a bit, well, rash. Not that the strawberry isn't a strong candidate for the title of best berry. Surely the residents of Wepion, the Belgian town which claims to be the world capital of strawberries and which houses a strawberry museum, would give it their vote. So, too, most likely, would the citizens of Strawberry, Ariz., and Strawberry, Calif.

And who would argue that strawberries aren't wonderful? The ancient Romans even thought they could cure gastritis and other illnesses. (I don't know if that's true, but, on the other hand, I won't dispute the notion that a large dish of strawberries, perhaps covered with heavy cream, can be therapeutic.)

Strawberries are members of the rose family and grew wild for hundreds of years before being cultivated in the 15th century. Today there are some 70 varieties. The best ones still grow wild in the woods of France and are known as fraises des bois (strawberries of the woods). The French word for strawberry, fraise, as well as the Italian word, fragola, and the Spanish word, fresa, derive from the Latin term, fragaria. It is applied to strawberries because of their scent or fragrance. We call them strawberries probably because of the straw used to cover the berry beds to keep down weeds, though there is another theory that because strawberries were ripe at the time hay was mowed, the "straw" comes from the Anglo-Saxon word, "streow," for hay.

Whatever they are called, there is no question that the strawberry is a beautiful fruit worthy of accolades. After all, how bearable would Southeast Missouri summers be without strawberry shortcake? But then there are blackberries.

To me there is hardly a sight more beautiful than a basket of just-picked blackberries, especially if I didn't have to pick them. Blackberries grow on thorny shrubs, which is why they are sometimes called brambles. Admittedly, they contain large seeds, but that's a small price to pay for their tart, intense flavor. Too bad these gorgeous berries seem to be scarcer than others, for they make the definitive cobbler and, as far as I'm concerned, a few fresh ones can transform even the most pedestrian bowl of cereal into gourmet food.

Not that the blueberry doesn't have much to commend it. Curiously, it's one of the few foods where the color blue is appetizing (actually, a blueberry is light green on the inside). Blueberries last longer after picking than other berries and they seem to freeze better too. And when it comes to baking, blueberries are far more adept than other berries, particularly strawberries which quickly lose flavor, color, and texture when subjected to heat (unless you boil them down into jam or jelly). Blueberries may well be the ultimate addition to pancakes and muffins.

But despite the allure of strawberries, blackberries, and blueberries, when it comes to selecting the best, I'd have to cast my ballot for the raspberry, for, it seems to me, the raspberry represents the best of all possible berry worlds: a color more intense than a strawberry's, a shape more refined than a blackberry's, a texture more melting than a blueberry's, and a taste more ambrosial than any of them.

Though raspberries come in three major varieties -- black, golden, and red -- the red are the most delicious in my judgment, and the most elegant. As food writer Barbara Kafka rightly observes, "Nobody can be insulted by raspberries and cream." Indeed, because of their limited availability and typically high price, raspberries are often considered a luxury. But what wonderful extravagance!

So with all due respect to the good Dr. Butler, I think he may have overstated the case for strawberries, though, perhaps, not by much. The truth is, I wouldn't want to spend a summer without strawberries, blackberries, blueberries, or raspberries. I'm grateful for all of them. And to celebrate the season, I recommend the following recipes, one for whichever of these berries you think is best.

Blackberry Cake

This marvelous cake from Faye Huey Sanders of Chaffee is actually a spice cake to which blackberries are added. Slathered in cream cheese and coconut, it's no wonder this dessert has for years been the most sought after item at the Sanders family reunion. One taste may make you wish to be adopted by the Sanders family in time for the next reunion.

Ingredients:

3 eggs

2 cups granulated sugar

1 1/2 sticks margarine, divided

3 cups flour

1 teaspoon cinnamon

1 teaspoon ground cloves

1 teaspoon allspice

1 teaspoon nutmeg

1 teaspoon baking soda

2 teaspoons baking powder

2 heaping cups blackberries

1 package (8 oz.) cream cheese

1 teaspoon vanilla

1 pound powdered sugar

1 package (14 oz.) flaked coconut

Directions:

Combine eggs, 1 stick margarine, and granulated sugar and beat well. Add flour, spices, baking soda and powder, and mix thoroughly. Fold in berries. (If necessary, thin batter with berry juice.) Bake in three greased and floured 9-inch pans at 350 degrees for 20-25 minutes or until done. Cool thoroughly. Mix cream cheese, remaining 1/2 stick margarine, vanilla, and powdered sugar until light and fluffy. Frost cake and sprinkle with coconut, pressing lightly to adhere.

Strawberries and Ice Cream with Balsamic Vinegar

No, this isn't a misprint. The rich, fruity taste of balsamic vinegar makes a wonderful contrast to the sweet strawberries. At our house we often just splash a little of the vinegar on top of a dish of strawberries, but this recipe from Gourmet Magazine goes a step beyond by adding ice cream and a brown sugar glaze.

Ingredients:

6 large ripe strawberries

2 tablespoons balsamic vinegar

2 tablespoons packed brown sugar

1 1/2 cups vanilla ice cream

Directions:

Trim berries and cut into wedges. In a small heavy saucepan heat vinegar and brown sugar over moderate heat, stirring, until sugar is dissolved and simmer one minute. Remove pan from heat and add berries, tossing to coat. Serve over ice cream. Serves 2.

Blueberry Torte

You won't believe this sensational cheesecake-like torte from Eating Well Magazine is actually low in fat, but at 7 grams per slice, it is. Moreover, though it is beautiful enough to make others think you spent hours on it, it's really easy to prepare.

Ingredients:

1 1/2 cups flour

1/2 cup sugar

1/2 teaspoon cinnamon

1 1/2 teaspoons baking powder

1/4 teaspoon salt

1/4 cup canola oil

2 large egg whites, lightly beaten

1 tablespoon melted butter

2 teaspoons vanilla, divided

1 large egg

2/3 cup low-fat sweetened condensed milk

2 tablespoons cornstarch

1 1/2 cups nonfat plain yogurt

grated zest of 1 lemon

3 cups blueberries

Directions:

Spray 9-inch springform pan with cooking spray. Mix together flour, sugar, cinnamon, baking powder, and salt. Add oil, egg whites, butter, and 1 teaspoon vanilla and mix with fork until well blended. Press into bottom of pan. Whisk together whole egg, condensed milk, and cornstarch until smooth. Add yogurt and whisk until smooth. Blend in lemon zest and remaining 1 teaspoon vanilla. Pour over crust. Sprinkle blueberries over top. Bake at 300 degrees for 75 to 90 minutes until top is just set and center quivers slightly when shaken. Cool in pan. Serve warm or chilled dusted with powdered sugar. Serves 12.

Raspberry Cheese Tart

I've been making the filling for this tart for more than 25 years, ever since I first saw the basic recipe in Family Circle Magazine. There's nothing to it, yet you couldn't ask for a more impressive showcase for fresh raspberries or, for that matter, fresh fruit of any kind.

Ingredients:

1 pie shell baked in 9-inch round fluted tart pan

1 package (8 oz.) cream cheese

1/4 cup sugar

1 tablespoon heavy cream

1 1/2 tablespoons orange liqueur

1 pint raspberries

1/4 cup apple jelly

Directions:

Beat cream cheese until fluffy and add sugar, cream, and liqueur. Spread over pastry and refrigerate one hour. Arrange berries over tart and brush lightly with melted apple jelly to glaze.

Got a recipe you'd like to share with our readers? Are you looking for a recipe for something in particular? Send your recipes and requests to A Harte Appetite, c/o The Southeast Missourian, P.O. Box 699, Cape Girardeau, Mo., 63702-0699 or by e-mail to tharte@semovm.semo.edu.