A HARTE APPETITE: PANCAKES HAVE RICH, LONG HISTORY

Archaeologists have discovered evidence in tombs as old as 8000 B.C. that pancakes were a significant component of the ancient Egyptian diet. And as Maguelonne Toussaint-Samat points out in her 800-page volume, "The History of Food," the "cakes" of the Old Testament were really pancakes. In fact, the basic pancake recipe in use today can be traced back to the Roman gourmand Apicius (who, upon realizing that he no longer could afford the lavish banquets to which he had become accustomed, committed suicide).

Though an ancient IHOP has yet to be discovered, it is clear that pancakes are one of the oldest forms of bread known to humankind and consequently, as food writer Dorian Leigh Parker reminds us, they are steeped in tradition. As she notes, ancient cultures often celebrated the harvest with religious ceremonies associated with pancakes. For example, to Slavonic tribes pancakes were symbolic of the sun god.

Pancake traditions are still evident today. Thus in France, the second of February is a Lenten holiday called Chandeleurs or Pancake Day. In England there are pancake races held on Shrove Tuesday, the day before Lent. In the Netherlands rival communities compete with each other to see which can produce the most incredible pancakes while in Finland and Russia neighbors vie with each other in pancake eating contests. And right here in Cape Girardeau the Lions Club annually serves thousands of pancakes on Pancake Day. (Their 60th anniversary was last week.)

Many of us have pancake traditions of our own. At our house, for example, Sunday was always pancake day, and it was the custom for the men in the family to make them. Thus, as soon as he was able, my son was introduced to the pancake ritual, and when he went off to college, he took his Dad's recipe with him.

But good pancakes require more than just a good recipe. They are as reliant on technique as any food I can think of. The proper equipment is essential too. Though you can make excellent pancakes in a skillet, I prefer a griddle and an electric one at that because it can be set to a precise temperature. Though some cookbooks recommend 350 degrees, I think 400 works better. Proper mixing of the batter is also crucial. It's perfectly all right if it's lumpy. In fact, it's preferable. To get a really smooth batter may require so much mixing that you end up toughening the finished product. And when it comes to flipping the pancakes, don't wait too long. They should still be wet, not dry on top when you turn them over. You'll actually be able to see them puff up.

You can practice these techniques on the following recipes which illustrate the versatility of pancakes. After all, there's not a cuisine known that doesn't have its pancake specialty, whether the crepes of France, the blini of Russia, or the palacsinta of Hungary. And they can be eaten at any meal, from breakfast to dinner. Whatever the time of day, these are pancakes to flip over.

Giant Sunday Pancakes

These pancakes, from Bon Appetit magazine, are reminiscent of the ones served at my son's favorite place for pancakes (other than home), New York City's Canadian Pancake House. There the pancakes fill an entire plate and require two spatulas for turning.

Ingredients:

3 large eggs

1/2 cup sugar

6 tablespoons melted butter

1 1/2 cups flour

1 cup milk

1 tablespoon baking powder

1/4 teaspoon salt

Directions:

Whisk eggs, sugar, and butter until blended. Add flour alternately with milk in three additions, whisking to blend after each addition. Whisk in baking powder and salt. Melt enough butter in heavy medium nonstick skillet over medium heat just to coat bottom. Ladle scant 3/4 cup batter into skillet, rotating skillet to spread batter to about 6-inch diameter round. Cook pancake until bubbles form on surface and bottom is brown, about 1 minute. Turn over pancake and cook until bottom is brown and pancake is cooked through, about 1 minute. Makes 5 pancakes. Pancakes may be kept warm on baking sheet in oven at 250 degrees.

Mark's Shrimp and Spinach Pancakes

These savory pancakes remind me of my favorite pancake house in all the world, the Pannekoekenhuisje, a tiny restaurant in a 16th century brick building on a side street in romantic Brugge, Belgium. The friendly staff there serves nothing but appetizer, main course and dessert pancakes in an atmosphere that is positively enchanting. The recipe is from Dorian Leigh Parker's book, "Pancakes: from Flapjacks to Crepes."

Ingredients:

4 ounces spinach, cooked and minced

4 ounces small shrimp, cooked and coarsely chopped

4 large eggs

3/4 cup milk

2 1/2 cups flour

salt, pepper and nutmeg to taste

Directions:

Thoroughly mix spinach and shrimp. Beat in eggs, then milk. With wooden spoons stir in flour and beat well. Season to taste and set aside, covered, for 30 minutes. Heat griddle or skillet until drop of water sizzles on contact. Brush lightly with butter. Use 1/4 cup batter to make pancakes and brown on both sides. Makes 12 small pancakes.

Banana Chocolate Chip Pancakes

These decadent pancakes hardly need it, but why not gild the culinary lily and serve them with maple syrup, butter and sliced bananas? The recipe is from Chocolatier magazine.

Ingredients:

1 cup flour

2 tablespoons packed light brown sugar

1 1/2 teaspoons baking powder

1/8 teaspoon salt

1/2 cup mashed very ripe banana (about 1 large)

2/3 cup milk

1 large egg, lightly beaten

1 teaspoon vegetable oil

1/4 teaspoon vanilla

1/4 cup miniature chocolate chips

Directions:

In large bowl, combine flour, sugar, baking powder and salt. In medium bowl stir together banana, milk, egg, oil and vanilla until well combined. Stir banana mixture into dry ingredients just until blended. Stir in chocolate chips. Using 1/4 cup batter for each pancake, cook on hot griddle until bubbles appear, about 1 minute. Turn and cook other side until done.

Got a recipe you'd like to share with our readers? Are you looking for a recipe for something in particular? Send your recipes and requests to A Harte Appetite, c/o The Southeast Missourian, P.O. Box 699, Cape Girardeau, MO., 63702-0699 or by e-mail to tharte@semovm.semo.edu.

~Tom Harte is a professor at Southeast Missouri State University and writes a food column every other week for the Southeast Missourian.