A HARTE APPETITE: CHILI RECIPES CREATE `SUPER BOWL' FRENZY

As California restaurant critic Merrill Shindler observes, "Like politics and religion, nobody agrees about the one true chili." It's a dish that's easy to get into an argument over. For example, some people vehemently claim that real chili does not contain beans while others claim just as vehemently that it does and, what is more, they'll specify the particular type of bean which must be used. Some contend that pork, chicken, and even lamb can be used while others insist that true chili contains only beef. And among those there will likely be arguments about whether the beef should be ground or chopped into chunks.

Even the color of "real" chili is not above controversy. While the International Chili Society (a non-profit organization which has sponsored the World's Championship Chili Cookoff for more than 30 years) recognizes only red chili, green chili abounds in the Southwest, particularly in New Mexico where someone has facetiously suggested that the official state question should be "Green or red?" because that's what they'll ask you if you order a bowl of chili there. (In fact, one of the best versions of chili I've ever eaten is the green chili stew served at the little Kiva Coffee Shop in Taos.) Surely cookbook author John Thorne was not exaggerating when he wrote in a recent issue of Chile Pepper Magazine, "There is no way of making chili, no food or flavor, not even a cooking implement, that can be named as essential to the dish that won't provoke an argument. . . ."

Even the origins of the dish are the subject of some dispute. Though Cincinnati can claim to be something of a chili capital because of the unique style of the dish served there, chili con carne probably was invented in Texas. At least that was the site, before the turn of the century, of the first chili parlor (irreverently defined by Beard and McKie in their cooking dictionary as "a fistfight at which cooked beef is served"). According to one theory the dish originated in Texas prisons as a way to make inexpensive meat palatable. Another theory maintains that it was first prepared in San Antonio prior to the Civil War. And another contends that it was first envisioned by a 17th century Texas nun as she came out of a trance.

But though disputes about chili tend to run as hot as a jalapeno, there is no debating that this is the time of year when chili, however it is made, belongs on the menu. Indeed, January is a perfect time for a chili party, and if you're having a crowd over next Sunday to watch the big football game, consider serving any or all of the following recipes. Each is designed to produce a "super bowl" that will live up to its billing.

Barbara Bauerle's Chili

Many years ago I had the good fortune to take a culinary course taught by the late Barbara Bauerle, an exuberant cook who passed this recipe along to the class. It has been my favorite chili recipe ever since. In classical Mexican fashion, it calls for unsweetened chocolate to add depth to the dish.

Ingredients:

1 pound ground beef

1 green pepper, chopped

1 medium onion, chopped

2 cans (1 lb. each) stewed tomatoes

1 small can tomato paste

2 teaspoons chili powder

1/2 teaspoon salt

1 1/2 teaspoons ground coriander

1 teaspoon ground cumin

1/2 teaspoon thyme

1 teaspoon dried oregano leaves

2 teaspoons wine vinegar

1/2 ounce unsweetened chocolate

1 clove garlic, minced

1 can (1 lb.) red kidney beans, drained

Directions:

In a large kettle, cook beef over medium heat until crumbly. Add onion and green pepper and saute until onion is limp. Stir and add next 11 ingredients and 1 1/2 cups water. Bring to a boil and simmer, stirring occasionally, for 1 3/4 hours. Add beans and cook 1/4 hour longer.

Mike Bennett's Beanless Chili

Nearly everyone has a chili recipe they swear by and local dentist Dr. Michael Bennett is no exception. This one, which he has been making for more than 20 years, clearly reveals where he stands in the beans v. no beans debate.

Ingredients:

2 pounds round steak, cut into bite sized pieces

2 pounds ground beef

1 pound bacon, cooked and broken into small bits

5 tablespoons bacon fat (from cooked bacon)

4 medium onions, chopped

5 cloves garlic, chopped

4 tablespoons chili powder

2 tablespoons flour

1 pound fresh mushrooms, sliced

3 regular sized cans tomatoes with juice

1 regular sized can salsa tomatoes with green chilies

5 bay leaves

2 tablespoons salt

2 tablespoons oregano

3 tablespoons red wine vinegar

3 tablespoons light brown sugar

1 pint ripe olives (optional)

Directions:

Brown onions in bacon fat. Add garlic and meat and brown. Mix chili powder with flour and add to meat mixture, stirring until smooth. Add all tomatoes and cook gently for 20 minutes. Add remaining ingredients except mushrooms and olives, cover, and cook slowly for 2 hours. Add mushrooms and olives and cook 30 minutes longer before serving.

Sweet and Sour Chili

This recipe provides a unique twist on conventional chili and could hardly be easier to make. It is a favorite of my wife, who found it in an issue of Better Homes and Gardens magazine nearly 20 years ago.

Ingredients:

1 pound lean ground beef

1/4 cup chopped onion

1 clove garlic, minced

1 to 1 1/2 cups water

1 can (6 oz.) tomato paste

1 tablespoon grated Parmesan cheese

1 teaspoon sugar

1/2 to 1 teaspoon chili powder

1/2 teaspoon salt

1/4 teaspoon dried parsley flakes

1/4 teaspoon pepper

2 cans (15 oz. each) three-bean salad

Directions:

In large saucepan, cook ground beef, onion, and garlic until meat is browned and onion is tender. Drain if necessary. Add 1 cup water and remaining ingredients except three-bean salad and mix well. Add undrained three-bean salad and bring to boiling. Reduce heat, cover, and simmer 30 minutes, adding additional water if needed and stirring occasionally.

White Bean and Chicken Chili

This trendy recipe from the Lighter Tastes of Aspen cookbook might horrify purists who insist on a "bowl of red," but it's a delicious alternative to beef chili that could complement the regular offering at your next chili party.

Ingredients:

4 cups green chilies, diced

6 cups cooked Northern beans

2 pounds boneless chicken breast, cooked and chopped

1 large yellow onion, diced

1/4 cup cumin

1/2 gallon chicken stock

1/2 cup cilantro, chopped

1 teaspoon salt

1 teaspoon pepper

1/2 cup cream

Directions:

Combine all ingredients in a pot, bring to a boil and simmer for one hour, stirring often. Serve topped with sour cream and cheddar cheese.

Got a recipe you'd like to share with our readers? Are you looking for a recipe for something in particular? Send your recipes and requests to A Harte Appetite, c/o The Southeast Missourian, P.O. Box 699, Cape Girardeau, MO., 63702-0699 or by e-mail to thartesemovm.semo.edu.

~Tom Harte is a professor at Southeast Missouri State University and writes a food column every other week for the Southeast Missourian.