Mollie's Cafe & Bar -- intimate restaurant, congenial bar

By Jim Obert

Business Today

"Things have changed but nothing's changed," said Michael Risch, owner and general manager of Mollie's Cafe & Bar in downtown Cape Girardeau. "The ownership has changed but the business operates as usual."

Last May, Risch, who had been general manager at Mollie's for almost two years, and long-time Mollie's chef Matthew Tygett, purchased the business from John and Jerri Wyman.

"The transition was very smooth," said Risch, who has managed restaurants in many states since entering the industry in 1989. "The Wymans were mentors and continue to be. The business is successful, and our future in Cape looks great. The quality of food and service hasn't changed."

Mollie's has 20 employees -- and they are the same employees who were there a year ago. From an industry standard, said Risch, "that's pretty unheard of."

Mollie's has seating for 96 people at 25 tables. The dining area is rather small and intimate, but the atmosphere is one of understated elegance. Contemporary music plays softly in the background. Large, colorful artwork dot the off-white, brick walls. The hard-wood floor glistens.

Since it opened 13 years ago, Mollie's has been the graceful setting of marriage proposals, prom dates, business dinners and even some political get-togethers. It has maintained a broad appeal over the years. It opened on Good Hope Street in 1989 and moved to its current location at 11 S. Spanish in 1992.

According to Risch, "Our short-term goals are to polish our image and focus on maximizing our current business." Risch said long-terms are in the formative stage, but he and Tygett, the chef at Mollie's for the past 10 years, want to complete a full year of business before initiating any changes.

Risch said Tygett deserves much credit for the success of the business. "He's been here a long time and he's responsible for what comes out of the kitchen," said Risch, adding that fresh food is bought in small quantities, sold quickly, then reordered. "We don't have big freezers and storage spaces. Being a small restaurant is an asset when it comes to buying fresh ingredients."

Favorite foods include hand-cut filets, chef's nightly features, fresh fish, pasta features, fresh meat, desserts and mushroom caps -- the most popular appetizer.

The adjoining lounge sports a number of tables and a long, hand-carved cherry bar that dates to the Prescott House Hotel in Cape in the mid-19th century. The bar exudes old-world charm and is very well stocked. Customers can choose from among 24 vodkas, 20 scotches, 16 bourbons, nine rums, six gins, 35 beers and a myriad of liqueurs and cordials. Wines hail from California, France, Italy, New Zealand, South Africa and other countries.

"I may have the biggest selection of drinks in the region," said Risch, standing in front of the bar whose mirror reflects the long line of bottles that face customers on bar stools.

Risch says customers develop relationships with the bartenders and talk to people sitting next to them. The lounge is a good place to sit and sip martinis and talk to friends.

Mollie's Cafe & Bar often hosts rehearsal dinners and Christmas parties in a semi-private area. Food is not catered except to special groups gathered at Kelsen Gallery, which is next to Mollie's.

"This restaurant is a mainstay and is good for Cape Girardeau," said Risch, whose wife, Mary, helps with clerical work and public relations. "Our reputation is our fine food and professional service."