Finding flavor in food

Wednesday, February 16, 2005

About 20 years ago, Alice Waters, proprietor of California's Chez Panisse, was flying back from the Chino Ranch with a flat of its marvelously fragrant strawberries that she planned to feature for dessert at her restaurant that night. But, Gourmet editor Ruth Reichl remembers, as the perfume of those berries wafted through the plane, passengers began approaching Waters and asking for one.

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