Houck describes 1860s Cape Girarardeau

In last week's blog, we noted the arrival of Louis Houck in Cape Girardeau in 1869, 150 years ago. Marking the centennial of the Great Man's arrival here on April 21, the Southeast Missourian began publishing excerpts from his undated manuscript, "The Reminiscences of Louis Houck," on that date in 1969. The daily offerings continued through 52 installments.

The earliest articles reviewed Houck's family history, his educational background and his early careers as a newspaper printer and attorney. But what I find most interesting are the few excerpts devoted to descriptions of Cape Girardeau as it appeared just after the Civil War.

We continue now with one of those articles.

Michael Dittlinger's house was mentioned by Louis Houck in his "Reminiscences." This photo was taken from the May 18, 1905, Drummers Supplement. (Southeast Missourian archive)

Published May 2, 1969, in the Southeast Missourian:

Sisters of St. Francis Establish First Hospital

On Jackson Street or Broadway the Franks had a saloon and beer garden. Sebastian Albert afterwards acquired and enlarged the building as a residence. Across from this building, the Richards Cape Lime Company was being operated. Franks' garden was a great place to entertain for some of our citizens. Always open on Sunday. Beer was sold freely and people went there to amuse themselves. I remember that in the first year after I came to Cape Girardeau on some Sunday or other, a man was killed there by the name of Kelleher. The place was closed after that as a garden and saloon.

The Sisters of St. Francis first here established their hospital and remained there for some 10 years and then moved to the corner of Sprigg and William Street, near the German Catholic Church.

On top of the hill above Franks' garden, Judge (Michael) Dittlinger had a residence and a vineyard and all the hill now was occupied with residences and the open space belonging to the Normal School south of what is now Normal Avenue was his property. The hill was about 12 or 15 feet higher that it is now and has been graded down.

North of his house on the Normal plaza was located during the war, "Fort "B." Normal Avenue was then washed into deep gullies, rough and uninviting in appearance. In fact all the land where the Normal School is now located and the grounds now constituting the Normal campus was cut up by gullies, big and little. Originally about nine or 10 acres where the Normal School now stands were sold to the Normal School by Joseph Lansmon for $1,000 when the institution was established; but on account of the deep gullies, was not easily accessible with teams except in dry weather.

The south view was cut off by Judge Dittlinger's residence standing on higher ground as already explained and a big two-story barn about 100 feet long standing on a part of what is now the campus fronted the Normal School. But it should be remembered that the Plaza was then 15 feet higher. A vineyard and garden and orchard were located around the Dittlinger residence. All this has now disappeared and the whole landscape has been beautified.

The Town North of Jackson Street (Broadway)

The principal house on Bellevue Street north of Broadway was the Clark residence, now occupied by Mr. Himmelberger and which has been remodeled and enlarged. At the east end of the street on top of the hill on the corner of Lorimier, stood a two-story brick building known as "The Eagle's Nest," the oldest brick building in town... because it was (at) one time occupied by Mr. Dawson, who published a newspaper called "The Western Eagle." About 300 or 400 feet further east at the edge of the bluff was located "Fort A" and the remnants nearby of an old windmill stood. Only a few residences were located on this street. On North Street were Mr. Oliver's house now stands stood a big two-story frame house belonging to Mrs. Farmer. In fact, at that time all the real estate in that locality belonged to Mrs. Farmer. On the east side of the street, near Fountain Street, was located a small (black) Methodist Church. This was a gully-washed street and did not extend much further east.

(I) should say that Mr. Filbrun, as I remember it, had a little brick house near Frederick Street. I think Mr. Filbrun and the Gillroys owned about 10 acres of ground fronting on North Street between Frederick and Sprigg streets. The only way to reach the cemetery at that time, and that was the only graveyard in town, was through an alley by the (black) Methodist Church, and in wet weather it was a very muddy way to go. A few (black) people had little shacks near their church and east of the building.

I should say that the windmill I have mentioned near "Fort A" was for a long time the most conspicuous landmark of the town. It burned down many years ago. I think the whole hill, including the Fort, could have been bought for $300. Most of the property belonged to Mrs. Gayle and afterwards was sold at a judicial sale for something like $300. It was offered to me for that price, but altogether the top of that hill looked like a very unpromising field for investment and future profit. It is all covered with valuable residences now, overlooking the town and the river for many miles.